Like Niagara Falls, the Grand Canyon, and Yosemite Valley, Kootenai Falls is a marvel of nature that begs to be seen to be believed. Unlike these other popular destinations, however, it is not located in a national park, nor is it exactly accessible to the casual tourist. After all, you have to be in Northwestern Montana in the first place, which is arguably off the beaten path. On the other hand, since the well-maintained parking and picnic area are located on a major US highway and the falls are reasonably close to Flathead Lake and Glacier National Park, it's not terribly hard to visit if you plan ahead. If you do, you'll be amazed by what you see: a magnificent sequence of mighty cataracts down which crystal-clear mountain waters plunge, pour, and flume at breakneck speed over the course of a magnificent mile on a path that will culminate eventually in the Pacific Ocean at the mouth of Columbia River. It's not a huge drop - only 90 vertical feet from start to finish - but what's impressive is the breadth and volume of the ceaselessly churning whitewater that flows over the terraced rock platforms to empty into a scenic gorge downstream. Plus, you can see the whole spectacle up close and personal from both sides of the river. And in fact the best views are from a steep and slightly vertiginous trail on the other (the Northern) side. You access it by crossing a wonderful suspension bridge (the Swinging Bridge) that takes you across the river just below the falls, where if you're lucky you'll see a kayak or two in the rapids below. Take the trail uphill and to the East, retracing the route of the falls in an upstream direction. The trail is very exposed and narrow, crossing talus fields of crushed stone most of the time, so you'll need to watch your footing - carefully! Once you reach the head of the falls, the trail drops down to the river (which is one of the lowest spots in the whole state, at 1991 feet). You can follow it further, but eventually you'll have to return the way you came.
This is such a picture-perfect stretch of whitewater that Hollywood took notice. Parts of the 1994 film, "River Wild" (with a buff Meryl Streep and a creepy Kevin Bacon in the lead roles, alongside some great supporting actors, like David Strathairn, John C. Reilly, and Benjamin Bratt) were filmed here, in which the Kootenai stunt-doubles for the more famous Snake River in Idaho.
The falls are also sacred for the local native communities, and they've never been damned for hydroelectric purposes. They flow freely, and if you arrive during a spring snowmelt, you'll hear the raging rapids well before you even get close to see them. The pictures posted here are from a fall 2011 visit, so imagine even more water than this, and you'll get the picture. Sort of. It's not easy to capture the dynamism of the falls in pixelated form. The sound and fury is absent, and that's really what makes this place so entrancing.
Northwestern Montana is full of hidden treasures like Kootenai Falls (I'll review the stunning Ross Creek old-growth red cedar grove a little later). Hidden in plain sight, that is. All you have to do is show up, bring your hiking boots, your bear spray, and a healthy sense of adventure, and let nature do the rest! read more