Part of the White Brasserie chain, which is in turn part of Raymond Blanc's burgeoning empire, this is a vaguely French take on the now-traditional gastropub. The front of this establishment is a traddie pub, while the back is the dining area, with a partially open kitchen. You can order a la carte, or from a small but well chosen set menu. There are also daily specials.
I enjoyed a guinea fowl rillettes with pickled vegetables as a starter ( £6.90); my main of dressed crab and chips (£13.50) was tasty it's a suprisingly good combination but marred somewhat by the shrapnel-like specks of crabshell concealed in the crab meat. My dessert was some sort of mango and something gratin ( £ can't remember) ; this was less of a gratin, more a fruity morass, but toothsome nonetheless, as underlined by the fact that at least three other members of the party felt the need to nick a bit. House wines ( I wasn't allowed near the wine list) were unexceptional but wholly inoffensive vin de Pays d'Oc ( both red and white).
All in all, , I'd have to say: good but not great. The sort of place you'd bring your visiting in-laws if you didn't want to appear too flash. read more