One of the great pleasures of Japan is the amazing variety of unfamiliar foods. Sure, Fugu and horse sashimi get all the press, but walking into any random hole in the wall in Japan, even (if not especially) those crammed into basements or under railroad overpasses, nets the adventurous eater smells and tastes that are novel and sumptuous, and meals that are unforgettable.
Bill Taibe, like most serious chefs, has been bitten by the Japanese bug. He spent a few months "researching" izakayas in Japan before opening Kawa Ni, his tribute to Japanese bar food. I add the quotes only out of jealousy, since that process basically boils down to hanging out in bars eating fantastic food and drinking heavily every night in Tokyo, which, if not heaven, is a pretty darn good purgatory. The difference between Bill's research, and my own drunken proclamations that I'm going to open a Tokyo-high-style cocktail bar in Westport every time I'm mixed a good drink doing my "research", is that Bill went and actually opened Kawa Ni.
For those lucky few who have spent quality time in Japan, Kawa Ni isn't really an izakaya. The Japanese respect structure to a fault, and izakaya denotes a very specific style of eating and drinking to which Kawa Ni doesn't adhere. I note this only for the faithful, who will immediately note depatures such as: Donburi and Ramen aren't izakaye staples, oshibori don't vanish after first use, a lack of truly share-able plates, the stoneware is from grammy's attic, and a conspicuous lack of sticks (among other departures). But then the food will come, and you will shut your noodle hole and start fawning over the absolutely fantastic plates.
One of my favorite dishes in Japan is potato salad. That sounds stupid and pedestrian, but I've noticed that my japanese friends always order it, and my western friends never even see it on the menu, but it is always lurking somewhere, and it is wonderful. Served with lightly pickled vegetables (tsukemono), Kawa Ni's potato salad is a spot on imitation of the Tokyo style, and should not be missed. We also tried the filet beans, which were in a spicy szechuan pork sauce, a mind blowing seasonal squash plate, a fantastic pork and (mild) kimchee onigiri (rice ball), the Shrimp congee don-buri and the pork and garlic ramen. My only quibbles are: a) the ramen noodles lacked some of the snap of the better bowls around NYC these days and b) pan fried onigiri aren't shareable, even with that massive steak knife they give you to try to cut it up. But those are quibbles. Everything coming out of that kitchen was waaaaay superior to 99% of anything else in Fairfield county.
The atmosphere is fun and boisterous, but not the scene you get at the Whelk. There is only a tiny bar, which helps, and the interior is decidedly low-key, with cedar panelling and industrial lights. Special note to Toto Washlet lovers, the bathrooms are bidet-equipped (although I'll wager they are rarely used by untrusting gaijin).
The seating area is dominated by a large central communal table. The walls are covered with Japanese tchotchkes and saki bottles. Service is professional if a bit chaotic (a bottle of saki I ordered ended up on the bill but not the table, but it came off, no harm no foul). The menu has a helpful glossary on the reverse, for those who don't know their dashi from their karaage. In keeping with the excellent drink program at Taibe's restaurants, there is a good selection of beers, sake, and well-crafted mixed cocktails - all worth a try.
I am stunned, pleased and amazed that someone actually opened up a real Japanese restaurant without bowing to local expectations that Japanese = sushi and edamame. We are very lucky to have Kawa Ni here in Westport. How I will avoid taking every meal here from now on (given that they do takeout) will be a wonderful challenge. read more