We weren't quite sure on visiting John Dory, as we had all of our dinner places picked out, but we decided to make our last lunch in town here given that the food looked great and all we read were good things. The entrance is quite inconspicuous; given that John Dory is in the middle of a quieter block, sandwiched among what look like residential walkups, it would be easy to miss. We spotted the truck with the distinctive shadow of the John Dory on it, though, and so it was easy to know when we had finally arrived. Once you are inside, you are in a very cozy dining room - enough space for several small tables, with a table and high-top chairs in the back (where we sat). We realized later that it appears there are also seats in front of the open kitchen...it would have been a treat to sit there. Nonetheless, the small atmosphere really gives the spot an intimate feel, and our main waiter - along with the chefs who brought a couple of the plates out - were extremely friendly.
Like some other spots we went to, you could order a variety of tasting courses, and at lunch here (which I suspect was also the menu that would be available for dinner), you could have a lunch ranging anywhere from 3 to 8 courses. We decided to settle on 5 courses, which ended up being 4 of the more savory dishes, along with a single dessert course. Like virtually everywhere we ate here, part of the enjoyment of the food was seeing how beautifully it was presented. The amuse-bouche course was laid out on a plateful of seashells, conches, and starfish - a very thematic decoration - and every single plate was presented with as much care as it the preparation of the food itself
And as for the food, even though none of the plates are very large, you are treated to such exquisite flavors with each course that you would probably want to only eat seafood the rest of the time you are in town. We started off with macaroons topped with a herring-infused mousse - light and dainty, but with a whiff of the sea - along with a mini 'pizza' with parmesan and anchovies, which has a bit of stronger flavor to it. We then moved to the red mullet, which is a beautifully-presented course...the skin of the fish is left on, so you can see the vibrant red as it matches the spring selection of cherry tomatoes spliced in half, served with dots of cream infused with basil and squid ink(!). A very spring-like course that adds a bit of richness from the squid. The mackerel was next, very lightly cooked and encircled in an onion-infused green sauce...another light yet season-appropriate dish. The monkfish cheeks were delicious, along with being a bit larger than I anticipated (it must be bigger than I thought, clearly). The meat was a bit firmer in the preparation, but it was quite hearty, and the strongly lobster-infused sauce it was cooked in really makes it feel like you are eating a fish straight out of water - but even tastier than usual. Our last course was the grey mullet, which was served with a thicker artichoke puree - a nice, plainer finish that worked as a nice change from the two sardines served between thin crackers. You have to watch out for the tiny bones in the sardine tails, but the meatiness contrasts to the flakier mullet and the lighter veggies that are sprinkled on top. To finish it off, we had an excellent rhubarb-based dessert, served with yogurt, ice cream, slices of strawberries, and tarragon jellies (along with some slightly sweeter, less herb-based jellies). The variety of textures really just worked well together, culminating the meal in a clean, sweet fashion.
The food was so good here that we (sort of) contemplated coming back for dinner the same day. John Dory knows their seafood, and everything here was executed to absolute perfection. Great presentation, flavors that worked for an early spring meal, and all at a very reasonable price - I would highly recommend coming to visit for a relaxing dinner off the beaten path and get a firsthand look at what excellence in seafood preparation is like. read more