Here are your instructions for Sunday lunch at Il Granaio. Call a few days ahead and make reservations. Show up and sit down. Smile and nod at the old gentleman in a blue blazer no matter what he tells you -- it will be worth your while. We didn't see any menus, and it would be folly to ask for one. There is a simple question to answer -- red or white? (Red, of course.) Then the plates of antipasti are shuffled in front of you -- slices of salami, prosciutto (remember, this is Parma), broccoli with mashed potatoes, chickpeas, focaccia. Are we done yet? Not even close. We're just starting. Three or four different homemade pastas (with a plate of delectable hot peppers swimming in olive oil for those so inclined to spice the pasta up). Time for dessert! Panna cotta, fresh fruits, chocolate cake, olive oil cake. Massive jugs of limoncello and nocino with shot glasses accompany them. Perfect espresso seals the deal. At €35 per person, this is almost bank robbery, for the diners that is. Pay quietly and leave quietly, hoping that none of the American tourists find out about this place. And here I go ruining everything. read more