When you think of the E/F line in Eastern Queens, you don't think of it as indicative of racial makeup in the area - it is, but only if you know local history. The E is the little stub line that abruptly terminate at Parsons before it reached the commercial heart of Jamaica, while the F goes to 179th on Hillside, skimming the top of the commercial area. The E was supposed to surface and run further southward reaching Hollis, Springfield Gardens and Rosedale. The F tunnel extends all the way to 184th and was supposed to reach Springfield Blvd in the original plans. When the F was built in the 50s the extension eastward was promised to be "within months" once the E has been extended. When the E stub line (Archer Avenue Subway) were built in the 70s, the area was not doing so hot - white flight and stagflation depressed the area, and the tunneling in the project went severely over budget (Southeast Queens is prone to flooding and the tunnel leaks like a broken sieve). The promised extensions were never built. Since the 179th street station was overbuilt in anticipation for the extension east, most trains tend to terminate there due to higher capacity.
Why was it reflective of ethnic divides? South Jamaica below Archer Avenue and the area southeast are predominantly black, so your commute on the E is to Parsons/Archer and hop on a bus (or the dollar vans in the area). If you live in north / northeast of Hillside Avenue (predominantly Asian or Hispanic) your commute is to hop on a bus after the F, and you can see the ethnic differences on the E/F train passengers in Forest Hills. Jamaica Center and its downtown area is predominantly black and a bit latino, while Hillside Avenue is an area with a large Bangladeshi population There was formerly a West Indian community in the area - vestiges of storefronts advertised palouries and rotis, but they were gone and replaced by kebab joints. The only thing left is Sybil's (which is more Paki-Trini) and Genesis, both found in the area between Parsons and 169th on the F. In a way, Hillside Avenue serves as a de-facto northern limit to where you can find a Jamaican restaurant in Southeastern Queens, and that's written in half-jest as the only Jamaican place I am aware of in Northern Queens (Markie B's) moved from Junction / Northern down to Hollis in late 2017.
So, what can you expect out of Genesis? Well, gruff acknowledgement of presence that can barely be counted as service. They know that they and Sybil's are the only game in this part of town, so it's either put-up or shut-up. They've never been friendly to any of their customers walking through their doors, it's just a single "whaddahave?!". The dining room (if it even qualifies for that) is just a bunch of messy tables that you can plop down and eat your takeout order, and as for the counter, it's just a small window next to a bunch of fridges packing the usual Jamaican standards of peanut punch, Irish moss, ginger beer, or pre-made bottle beverages from Grace.
Now, what about their food? Here's a pro-tip - avoid the jerked chicken here. Most people consider jerked chicken to be a spicy griddled product, but after sampling it from many sources (I did go to school in Flatbush and frequent the joints on Church Avenue), I would have to say that smokiness is not negotiable. That's one of the major benefits of the prototypical jerk pan - it's supposed to give you that wrap-around smokiness from the firewood that works well with the garlic, ginger, scotch bonnet, allspice, bay leave and the thyme. Any idiot can open up a jar of Grace jerk rub, slather it all over the chicken, and dump it on a frying pan, but only a master can harness the smoky essence in an enclosed kitchen, and chef Garfield...couldn't do it. However, what I can tell you is that the man has the culinary magic with the oxtail - see, normal brown sauce stewed oxtail is usually kinda "meh" in most places, and there's not much distinctive about it. In chef Garfield's version, there's a certain brown sugar/caramel note to the sauce that makes the oxtail irresistible - a complexity that makes you probe further and further in, and works very well with the fall-off-the-bone tenderness. Now, the side dishes are about what you will expect from a Jamaican takeout joint, that is, rice-n-peas (decent and solid), the veggies (usually cabbage and carrots cut thin and steamed, and in the case of Genesis are not overdone), and the fried plantains (which is soft sweet and not greasy) are handled well.
Now, if I really want Jamaican food and is willing to put up with a 2 hour round-trip on the subway to Brooklyn for it, I'll hit places like Fisherman's Cove, Peppa's or Dougie's. If I am lazy and don't want to go too far for Jamaican, I guess this place is an okay choice...provided that I don't hit Markie B's first. read more