We had a big family lunch at Dishoom when we were in London last month, and it was everything I…read morehoped for, an Indian restaurant unlike any I've encountered at home. I feel like all my friends who've been to London have come back talking about this place, and I'm happy to join their ranks.
Dishoom was also one of a handful of dining options recommended by my hotel concierge for a party of 11, including kids. Booking was easy, via SevenRooms, no phone calls or emails necessary. It's a large restaurant, and part of a popular chain--I guess they have things figured out. The space was great, open and casual, exposed ceilings and eclectic decor. Lots of fans, which my three-year-old appreciated. Service was friendly and attentive.
I started my lunch with a drink, a refreshing green India Gimlet, gin and Rose's lime with celery bitters and fresh dill. I also tried and liked a sip of the New Permit Room Old-Fashioned, a slightly sweet cocktail with coconut-washed bourbon, Pedo Ximénez sherry, and Medjool date liqueur.
There was only one menu available for a party of our size, a pre-set family-style group feast for eight adults, to which we added a pre-ordered platter of lamb chops. I loved the variety of dishes that came with this meal, and every one of them was ridiculously delicious. (There was less available for the three small American children, but they loaded up on hotel breakfast and snacked on naan and colorful puffed crackers.)
The first round brought trays loaded with keema pau, okra fries, and bhel, along with lime, cilantro, and sauces for serving. The keema pau was incredible, probably my favorite dish of our lunch, if in part because it was 100% new to me. It was a spicy, aromatic blend of minced lamb and peas with dill and lindi pepper, served with toasted, buttered buns to make little sliders. So much flavor, it almost explained, by itself, why the British could never leave India alone. The okra fries were warm and crispy, and I loved the bhel, a crunchy snack of puffed rice, peanuts, and Bombay Mix tossed with pomegranate, tomato, onion, lime, tamarind, and mint.
The main course was another giant spread: chicken ruby, house black daal, awadhi jackfruit biryani, and chilled broccoli salad, plus our charred lamb chops, with sides of roti, naan, and raita. The chicken ruby was the highlight here, a fragrant, comforting curry
Chicken Ruby
Tender chicken in a rich, silky makhani sauce. A good and proper curry redolent with spice and flavour.
~ House Black Daal (V)
A Dishoom signature dish - dark, rich, deeply flavoured. It is cooked over 24 hours for extra harmony.
~ Awadhi Jackfruit Biryani (V)
Sturdy, savoury jackfruit and delicately flavoured rice, potted, sealed and cooked the traditional way. Adorned with barberries and sultanas.
~ Chilli Broccoli Salad (Ve, V)
Toasted pistachios and shredded mint leaves with finest, greenest broccoli, fresh red chillies, pumpkin and sunflower seeds, dates and lime.
CHARRED LAMB CHOPS 19.90
Two chops of generous proportions lie overnight in raw papaya, yoghurt and humble spices. Blackened on the grill and finished with a thrilling Kashmiri chilli sauce. A speciality of new standing.
~ Roomali Roti (Ve, V)
Soft handkerchief-thin bread, thrown, stretched and griddled to order on an upturned tawa.
~ Plain Naan (V)
freshly baked in the tandoor
~ Raita (V) Delicate minty yoghurt, cool as a cucumber
END WITH YOUR CHOICE OF
Mango Kulfi (V) ~ Pistachio Kulfi (V) ~ Malai Kulfi (V) original with caramel