Sometimes, you just have a feeling about a place. I can still vividly recall my very first time here, despite it being so long ago -- I felt it in my bones that I was in for something special. I had been struggling through a particularly tough period of my life, and desperately needed someplace warm, comforting, and homey to ease my thoughts and soothe the soul. Enter El Buen Comer, whose humble roots can be traced back to chef-owner Isabel Caudillo's own home kitchen in the Tenderloin more than two decades ago.
I remember every last detail of everything I ordered that day. I opened with the sope de rajas con crema -- wonderfully smooth, rich, creamy, with a little hint of smokiness from the poblanos. So good. I took one bite and immediately wished I'd ordered another.
Next came the Sope de Tinga -- smoky, just the right amount of heat, and a beautiful tempered sweetness from the onions. Perfectly composed.
The Sope de Papas con Chorizo was interesting; the chorizo was more subtle and meaty, rather than having its usual bright, hot, sharp, in-your-face character... and honestly, I kind of liked it like that, because it let the flavor from the masa and beans shine through. The potatoes were cooked just right; soft, but not soggy, giving a well-balanced bite texture-wise. I'll say that I wished there were more chorizo (kind of potato-heavy), but this was excellent nonetheless.
All three sopes shared a robust, toasty corn masa base, a nice juxtaposition against the soft black bean paste on top. A complete, balanced, well-rounded bite each and every time.
Moving on -- the Mole con Pollo was astonishing. The mole rojo was sweet, deep, nutty, and earthy, displaying a wonderfully complex blend of spices and hints of several different types of chiles... and yes, a deft touch of chocolate, but not in such a forward fashion as many assume when they hear the word "mole". The chicken itself was tender and juicy. I simply could. not. stop. eating. I sometimes like to say that a good measure of whether a food is truly "great" and deserves a spot on my all-time list is if I have a hard time putting down the utensils; I tend to be somewhat careful with my caloric intake unless I am truly impressed. Well, this one never even made it out of the car with me. Do what you will with that information. Riquísimo.
Every bit as impressive: the Puerco en Mole Verde. The mole had a wonderful richness; its prominent pipián nuttiness paired well with the flavor profile and spice of the chile verde and the distinct acidity from the tomatillos. Bold and herbaceous, I find myself loving this one more and more every time I get it.
As an added bonus -- the tortillas de mano they serve here are incredible, and are quite possibly my favorite corn tortillas I've ever had. They are supple, yet on the thicker, denser side; the texture has a little bit of "bite," like al dente but for tortillas instead of pasta. And, of course, a wonderful full-bodied corn flavor.
El Buen Comer has risen from beloved neighborhood favorite to San Francisco comfort food royalty, and for good reason. The Caudillos are kind, humble, and have put their hearts and souls into feeding the community they serve; they have more than earned every bit of the success that has come their way. Are things a bit pricey? Sure -- but I'll gladly spend on quality, heartfelt work without a second thought. Simple and soulful. Comforting and straight from the heart. May this place continue to warm hearts, just as it did mine when I needed it most. read more