An Austrian-influenced restaurant, which is recognized by Michelin, although I do not know if it…read morehas a star. Kind of interesting but absurd how the relatively small space was set up in a manner to keep it feeling open. Rational, but absurd because there were at least five seats on the hard granite (or marble) window ledge. You are provided a thin cushion, but unless your butt is nicely padded, it is of little use. Nice view of an open kitchen. Exceptional service. We tried the five course tasting menu. First, a raw-ish, cured fish (likely a sea trout) with tartar sauce, frisee, and parsley. Tasted fine. Nothing remarkable. Proportions on the palate, nothing remarkable, perhaps a bit inelegant, although it was handsome enough to appeal to the eye. Next, exquisitely thin slices of veal and thinly sliced shallots (or onions) and 'beetle beans' (they look like beetles!) with a scattering of minced chives in a rich, unctuous, briny and vinegar-ish beef broth, reminding me of mild, pastrami-like flavors. This was superb and one of my favorite dishes in Europe this year. Third, bacon jam stuffed Austrian-style dumplings sitting on beautifully prepared kraut and topped by a pointless foam. Dumpling nice on the eye and tasty with a nice chew, but unexceptional. The idea of bacon jam sounds better as an idea than it does as a thing unto itself. The kraut is key to making this work. The main dish was a seared lake trout with tiny cubes of apple or potato, a leek (maybe a bit of pea?) emulsion, slightly wilted radicchio, and another pointless foam. The cook on the fish was perfect and there was nothing wrong from conception to execution, but it was boring like a pretty person who grows up never having to say anything interesting. Final dish, dessert, a rice pudding with a plum sauce, poppy seeds, and more useless foam. Not a pretty dish by any means but quite good. Hint of something...black cardamom-ish. Including service, in toto, we're looking at around 4.4 rounded down.
