Swarkestone is a small village south of Derby, in a lovely setting next to the River Trent.
It's one of those places that has rather too much of historical interest for its size: the bridge and causeway over the Trent, originally built in the 13th century, together form the longest stone bridge in the UK. Its seventeen arches stretch over three-quarters of a mile (1 km). The present handsome spans over the river date from the mid 1700s.
The Cavaliers and Roundheads clashed here in 1643 during the English Civil War, and it's where Bonnie Prince Charlie's army stopped and turned back in 1745, ensuring the collapse of the Jacobite rebellion.
There has been a pub on the site of the Crewe and Harpur Arms for over 800 years, but the present coaching inn has 'only' been there for about 200. This handsome red brick building is spacious inside, with a central bar, and serves a selection of real ales and typical pub grub.
The decor has had a modern makeover, a bit bland for my taste: but the real attraction is, in any case, outside: it has a lovely, large beer garden which runs down to the River Trent, alongside the famous bridge. Although it's close to the road, noise doesn't seem to intrude. It's a lovely spot on a summer's day.
Swarkestone is on a lovely circular walk, taking in the River Trent and the nearby Trent and Mersey Canal. It takes about three hours and would make a perfect evening stroll - ending back at the pub, of course... read more