So it's taken me a long time to sample Crafthouse, having been open for longer than a year I really should have taken in the restaurant way before now - especially when it recently won The Oliver's Best Restaurant of the Year Award - but no, yesterday was my first visit.
I should caveat that by saying that I'd visited The Anjelica upstairs before, and found it to be totally ordinary - and when we started out visit to Crafthouse with cocktails and wine at Anjelica this time, I found it to be totally the same. Ordinary. For the lovely balcony area, the great views and the youthful pretty people scattered around the bar, the service was atrocious and drinks were pedestrian.
But this isn't a review of Anjelica, it's a review of Crafthouse.
We took our seats in the PDR and to be fair the service levels from Anjelica took a huge step upwards almost immediately, with a dedicated chap answering to our every whim for the next bottle of wine or martini with a swiftness I'm positive Anjelica could never hit. So we enjoyed some sparkling wine whilst we mulled the menu, what I can only presume is a group set menu having 4 starters, 4 mains and 4 desserts to choose from. But for lunch who really needs more choice than that? I went for the Duo of Pork, the Fillet Steak, and the crème brûlée, and sat back and waited for the magic...
Firstly the pork was bland. Really bland. Even the greasy roll of pork (as opposed to the tiny cut of pork) didn't excite the taste buds. And the chutney and brioche added very little to the blandness - the chutney registered as not being awful but the bun was dry and really worked my jaw muscles getting it down.
Which was probably Crafthouses way of getting me in training for the steak. I've been to Blackhouse, and RBG, and Gaucho (all in Leeds) and further afield to places like Hawksmoor - and comparing the fillet that I got at Crafthouse to any of these would be a travesty! It was as bad as the worst pub steak I've ever had - yes, I could have been at a Harvester. I had it rare, and it was tough and tasteless. a perfect combination for less than mediocre. It was only really half saved by the béarnaise sauce that I asked for and was giving instead of what my colleagues called the "grey gravy" - or peppercorn sauce. Dispatched quickly and with no real enjoyment (except maybe of rate carrots, three tiny ones, the best thing served all day), we moved onto the dessert course.
It was HUGE! The biggest Creme Brûlée I think I've ever seen. And it looked perfectly cooked with a good crispy shell. And inside, it was exactly the same as everything else I had at Crafthouse, unenjoyable, bland, poor.
We continued to drink until we were politely told we'd have to leave, at which point we went and sat at the front of Restaurant, Bar and Grill and enjoyed cocktails head, shoulders and torso above the quality of Crafthouse and Anjelica.
I thoroughly unenjoyable experience, saved from 1 star only by the fantastic Tannat red and a decent table service!
I have no idea which Crafthouse the judges for The Olivers went to, but on my experience yesterday, it wasn't this one. read more