This is as much a review of a walking tour around historic Kinsale, Cionn tSáile, and the famous…read morepromontory The Old Head of Kinsale, as it is for it's friendly tourist office.
Housed in an imaginatively designed modern structure, it manages not to look out of place with the towns vast majority of pretty heritage buildings, and is situated on what was the original quayside of this once important garrison town.
I'd come on the 249 bus the 27km from Cork, as I wanted for personal reasons to make a pilgrimage to the Old Head of Kinsale, where within sight of land in 1915, a tragic sinking close to the scale of loss of life on The Titanic took place, more about this at the end! Suffice to say I'd called in the Tourist Office essentially for information on how a non-car driver might get there. The staff were helpful beyond the call of duty, and although as you will see despite the best advice, and considerable effort, I was eventually thwarted in my attempts to get there, they told me about a local historian & guide called Dermot.
Dermot Ryan as well as conducting a regular early evening walking tour around the atmostpheric narrow & winding hilly streets, starting from the tourist office, is an absolute gold mine of information. Like the best tour guides I have listened to, he never feels the need to over sell his subject, and has a wonderfully subtle delivery that leaves you hanging on his every word, and wanting more.
He takes small groups around the historic town, telling you about everything from Spanish allies helping the locals to fight the English, through wine trade in what was once one of the most important harbours in Europe. Even the 'Kinsale cloak', a famous hooded cloak worn by local ladies from medieval to more recent times, puts in a humorous appearance, with remembrance of the women who wore them being the feared hoodies of their day!. All the time Dermot compellingly managed to put little old Kinsale right in the heart of much bigger history.
Dermot was very pleased I asked him about RMS Lusitania, once the worlds largest liner, which brings us neatly back to The Old Head of Kinsale!
It was within easy sight of here on a bright sunny afternoon in May that the Lusitania was torpedoed by a German U-boat, and took just 18 minutes to disappear beneath the calm waters, robbing 1198 men, women & children of their lives. There is a memorial to this tragic event close to the R604. Sadly however this is no easy place to get to get to, particularly if you don't have a car for the around 13km journey from Kinsale. Anyway the day I chose to get a taxi to view the memorial, the road was closed. Also after I'd settled on walking, it seemed that the elements in the form of an incredibly strong & long lasting downpour of rain, were conspiring to keep me away. Next time remind me to bring a bike & oilskins!
Controversially this beautiful headland point which stretches out into the sea for almost 2 miles, complete with it's dramatically situated lighthouse is now dominated by Irelands costliest Golf Course. Here non members are denied access, although the Golf Courses website tauntingly boasts of it's beautiful natural habitat & perfect vantage point for viewing Whales & Dolphins.
Another reason why I hate golf!