To me, Chisou is the less ostentatious version of Nobu. The menu features many of the same Japanese-influenced dishes, such as the Yellow Tail Sashimi with Ponzu Sauce or the Black Cod with Miso Paste, along with a host of similar Maki Rolls. Chisou's Beauchamp Place restaurant is, however, a more elegant space, with the decor reflecting hints of Japanese culture. Along one side of the restaurant is a cluster of semi-partitioned tables, which form hut-like structures reminiscent of Japan's simple architecture. Altogether, it is a small space and so can get very busy (bookings are recommended), yet even at peak times there is an overriding zen-like aura that ensures a comfortable dining experience. The staff form one element of this aura as they function with true Japanese efficiency: polite yet professional, attentive yet unobtrusive. The best way to notice excellent service is not to notice it at all.
The food reflects the place by being fresh and refined. We were recommended the Horenso Salad, a layer of baby spinach topped with spicy prawns and grated carrot with Yuzu vinaigrette to finish. It was a simple combination, but the flavours were delightful especially with the zingy Yuzu livening up the dark green leaves and complimenting the juicy prawns.
We also ordered the aforementioned Yellow Tail Sashimi (Hamachi Usuzukuri), which was lovingly presented. Each bite is fresh and clean, the unadulterated taste of the raw fish being so wholesome and healthy. This dish comes drizzled in an authentic Ponzu Sauce, which is a citrus-based Japanese vinegar mix. The origins of the word 'ponzu' indicate the effect it has on your senses: 'pon' is derived from the English word 'punch', while 'su' is the Japanese word for vinegar. A subtle, tangy, refreshing punch on your taste buds indeed.
The Rock Shrimp Tempura wasn't as enjoyable as the rest, perhaps because there was an inevitable comparison with Nobu who do the tempura to hot, crispy, golden perfection. The Chisou offering wasn't quite as hot and crispy, nor quite as golden. It was a rather paler batter, which didn't succumb between your teeth with the satisfying crunch you would desire from it. Underneath this coating, the shrimp themselves weren't as juicy, a little drier. Don't get me wrong, it was still pleasingly edible and the dipping sauce of Yuzu Mayonnaise made it more interesting (and tasty). I must also note that this dish is on the 'Chef's Specials'; an elite group of dishes that form a small, separate list of recommendations. Perhaps this also contributed to my slight nonchalance towards the Rock Shrimp, because it wasn't necessarily 'special'.
The sushi we ordered came on one long rectangular platter. Our dish combined the Spider Maki, Sake Avocado Maki and California Roll - all of which were good. They are light and dainty, but altogether filling. The Spider Maki is a soft shell crab inside-out roll, which gave the right amount of crunch. The Sake Avocado Maki is a salmon and avocado inside-out roll with generous portions of fish and very soft avocado pieces. The California Roll is a mouthful and, again, delicious and fresh. I stated in a previous post that I like my sushi a certain way, preferably with brown rice, but as far as white rice rolls go - these get my approval.
I've been to Chisou's Knightsbridge abode twice now, and both times have been filed in my memory under the 'pleasant evenings' category. Good food, great service, lovely setting, perfect ambiance. The price is as to be expected from a Knightsbridge Japanese joint, so while it won't be my go-to place for sushi and the rest, I probably will return at some point in the future, most probably to venture upstairs into the sake bar where you can find seventy different sake variations. That's a dangerous-sounding number, but also exclusive and impressive. Go-to list, maybe not; to-do list, definitely. Kampai! read more
