For a great Mercado seafood experience that won't empty your pockets, try Tio Willy on the outer…read moreedge of the market. The restaurant isn't much to look at - it's actually the classic hole in the wall. I believe there might actually be two or three separate, small dining rooms. The one we were seated in was very small, maybe eight tables max, and garishly painted in a maritime theme with a black and white checkered tile floor. If you're looking for a white tablecloth fine dining environment, this place probably isn't for you.
We were seated promptly by a friendly server. It helps to know a little Spanish, which pretty well describes my proficiency. Luckily, they have a menu with English translations. It was all good except our server recommended the seafood "pil pil" (the one without cheese), which was translated as "pil pil". Hmmm. Intrigued, I decided to give it a try. We also ordered some ceviche to share.
Do not go here if you're in a hurry - the pace of service is leisurely. If you're at the Mercado, you're probably on VC - so accept the laid-back Latin pace, sit back and order a bottle of wine. You can people watch and sip a Chilean red while you wait for your food. I took it as a good sign that we were the only Yanquis in the joint - everyone else looked to be local. Chances are that at some point, a street vendor will pop in and try to sell the diners toys, bandages, chewing gum or whatever. Don't worry - it's all part of the experience. If you don't want what they're selling, smile, say "no gracias" and wave them off.
The meal started out right with complimentary hot biscuits served with butter. These were followed about 20 minutes later by the ceviche. Very generous serving, fresh tasting, and oh so delicious. As good as it was, we couldn't finish it, because the seafood pil pil was even bigger. Turns out pil pil is a delicious, buttery seafood stew, served in what looked like a cast iron dish. Tio Willy is certainly not stingy with the seafood - I posted a picture so you can see for yourself. Seafood lovers will mostly dig it, although if calamari turns you off, you might want to order something else. Overall, a great place to try fresh Chilean seafood.