Despite predictions of ten inches of rain in the coming days at the coast, my husband and I forged ahead and drove from Austin to Galveston last week for a preview stay at the freshly revamped historic Carr Mansion Bed and Breakfast. While the drive through bands of torrential rain was occasionally harrowing, our three night stay in the Greek Revival mansion built in 1866 made it all well worth it.
The bed and breakfast experience is obviously not for everyone. Parents with energetic small children should stay away for the benefit of all concerned. People who prefer the predictability of a hotel chain or those who want the kitchen amenity found in beachfront condos have plenty of more suitable choices for their own personal vacations, but for those who like immersive historical experiences that harken back to the pre-1900 heyday when Galveston was not only a major port city but the largest city in the state, their is nothing like staying at one of the grand old homes that once housed the town's elite.
The Carr Mansion has been updated, of course, so you won't need to forsake the wifi, the cable, the AC or the indoor plumbing. Their are six unique suite-like rooms on the top floor, all with spacious sitting areas, plus another on the main floor and a carriage house out back. Ceilings were at least twelve feet high and floor to ceiling windows opened on to balconies that were set to soon be rebuilt before the grand opening in July. We had a restored clawfoot tub in our room. I hadn't had a bath in one of those since I was a young child in the sixties visiting my grandfather in New England. It surprised me how relaxing it was as they got just the right angle for the back to recline while soaking in the warm water. Waffle robes and top quality towels were great additions to the bathing experience.
Mattresses are very comfy memory foam so sleep was restful and restorative. Our bed was about four feet off the ground and we had a step ladder beside it to help get into it. That brought back more childhood memories for me of the high guest bed at the home of my other grandparents.
Downstairs featured a parlor room for hanging out, an airy dining room with multiple tables and a baby grand piano where breakfast will be served when the B & B is in full swing, and a deep dark woody pub where complimentary Happy Hour drinks and hors d'oeuvres get served every evening between 5 and 7. Off of the pub is a commercial size kitchen. The set-up is ideal for events like catered wedding rehearsals or anniversary parties. While we were staying there a women came by to book the entire estate for a weekend to house out of town wedding guests. The grounds, which were being worked on during most of our stay, featured huge flat stones for patio areas, surrounded by towering palms and potted plants, and would be yet another part of the estate that beckons one to just hang out and soak in the ambience.
Just off Broadway on 33rd Street, Carr Mansion is an easy thirteen block walk through historic Galveston to the Strand and an even easier ten blocks to the Seawall. Despite intermittent rain, we did get some good walking in and enjoyed checking out the various stages of restoration of other nearby historic homes and businesses.
The host at the mansion is Joellyn Moynahan who escaped to the island from the corporate world in Houston several years ago and got involved with managing vacation rental properties before taking the plunge into the b&b world. She embodies all the qualities one would desire for someone in her position and during our stay was utterly unflappable despite non-stop dealings with gardeners, painters, electricians, etc. who were all working to put the finishing touches on the property before the Grand Opening party in two and a half weeks. In addition to that she was getting ready for a big wine event at the mansion in only a couple of days where at least a hundred guests were expected, and yet she managed to be totally attentive to our needs and was highly informative about restaurants and other Galveston attractions. In her "spare" time Joelynn was looking up recipes in her favorite cookbooks to incorporate into the breakfast and happy hour menus so expect some tasty treats at this special place. read more