So this was one of the places everyone recommended we had to stop at while we were in Madrid for a…read morecouple days on our way to Portugal, and one of the most disappointing. Don't get me wrong - they do indeed have a whole bunch of food vendors that all looked extremely good. Some of them were tourist-priced (ok, a majority of them were tourist-priced), but none of them looked *bad*, just not *necessarily* worth the price, when you could go any number of places nearby and get food as good, for cheaper. But there were definitely some hidden gems, including one absolutely wonderful tapas place that we ordered a bunch of little tostas from, of all different sorts, that we were absolutely impressed by and happy with all of. And of course, the vendor I had originally been most excited about, La Hora del Vermut, which does indeed offer both very inexpensive, great "house" vermouth, and very affordable fancy vermouths. I would've loved to hang out at a bar like that... if I could do so and also *move*.
See, the thing is... this market is absolutely not big enough for all its accolades. As Yogi Berra may or may not have ever said, "No one goes there nowadays, it's too crowded." At least I probably wouldn't ever go back there... we could barely hear to order tapas at the tapas place, and good luck finding a place to eat if you're not taking it to go. Good luck actually making it to one of the vendors further away from the entrance, either. It was an absolute madhouse, so we ordered a bunch of tostas at once, I braved the insanity to get a couple glasses of vermouth and met my wife outside the actual market to eat them on the steps. And that was the *off* season - if it's like that in January, I could only imagine it in May! Great vendors, but as a market, they really need better crowd management / foot traffic control.