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    Broken Top Mountain

    4.5 (2 reviews)

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    6 years ago

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    9 years ago

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    Three Fingered Jack - Lunch break view

    Three Fingered Jack

    (3 reviews)

    Didn't know we could review the mountains. That's funny. Jack is a great mountain looks best with…read moresnow on him.

    See that craggy, busted, pinnacle of friable rock on your right as you're driving into Bend from…read morePortland? The one just north of that nipple-looking one*? That's Three Fingered Jack. If you happen to live in Oregon and also happen to want to do some *alpine* rock climbing in Oregon, this is one of your only choices. (that nipple I describe above is your other) The rock quality on both is horrendous. If this rock were in Washington or California, no one would climb it. It breaks, it sheds, it's hard to protect. It reminds me of the Chugach up here in Alaska. At least the approach is short. Take the PCT north for about 3-4 miles. Eventually, you'll see TFJ (if you want to be seen as kewl by other peak baggers, this is how you should represent this mountain in text). You really, truly, cannot miss it. Once you see it, pick the least horrible way to hoof it up the loose dirt/gravel/scree/choss and up onto the higher parts of the peak. Eventually, you'll come to an awkward traverse. This is "The Crawl**". Some folks protect TC, some folks don't. I climbed it protected because I was new to all things alpine and someone else rigged up all the ropes for me. I didn't find it to be that bad. Would I climb it unprotected? Maybe. Should you? I don't know dude, risk management is a personal thing. Maybe you should think about it for a while. After negotiating TC, you'll reach the summit block. This pillar of petrified poo is rated at 5.0-5.2 depending on which crusty, old-timey mountaineer you ask. The climbing is easy, but it doesn't protect all that well. People usually plug some small cams. I'm very comfortable taking a fall on small cams when compared to my peer-group. I don't think the placements here are very good. Remember rule 000001 of climbing: don't fall. If you're just a hiker, I would NOT recommend YOLO-ing up this fucker in your Keens! This is easy rock climbing, but it is absolutely rock climbing. This ain't no scramble, go back to Chow if you're looking for one of those! There's usually a whole mess of tat on the summit, so you can rappel back down the small face of portable-chickenhead-hand-holds. Despite the abysmal rock quality, TFJ is still worth tagging. Once. Why? The approach is short and the views of Mt Jefferson are stunning. (FYI cool kid: if you want to sound hip when talking about Mt Jefferson, call it "Jeffy". Also: talk constantly about how the only route worth doing is Jeff Park Glacier. But *never* call it that, just shorten it to "Jeff Park") If you're feeling really freaky, you can also easily attempt TFJ in the winter. The road is plowed. The summit block? It's often coated in beautiful-but-impossible-to-protect rhyme ice. Good luck, friend. *The nipple is Mt Washington. **When I lived in Oregon, I found that TC was a good benchmark for gauging the mental toughness of prospective climbing partners. If you want to do this too, it could go like this: "Hey, you ever climb TFJ?" "Yeah bro." "So...whudja think of 'The Crawl'?" "Fawk brah, that shit was easy! I could've sprinted through it in my Crocs!" That guy could be someone you want to climb with. He could be a confident, sure-footed climber and a natural leader. Or he could just be a loose-cannon with a deathwish. Use your own judgment. Pay attention to body language.

    Timberline Mountain Guides - Sunrise

    Timberline Mountain Guides

    (14 reviews)

    I just completed TMG's Mount Hood Silcox Hut Summit program (6/15-16)…read more The staff at TMG were great making sure we had all the necessary equipment for every condition you might encounter on the mountain, including rental gear that was in great condition. They also make sure you have the necessary skills to safely climb the mountain and provide the instruction in an easy to understand and comfortable way. The Silcox Hut is an amazing surprise to this program by providing comfortable and surprisingly luxurious accommodations for being situated halfway up a mountain! The "hut keeper" Steve was not only welcoming and an amazing host but an incredible cook providing delicious and varied dishes. Our guide, Max, was a knowledgeable, helpful and very patient person. His professionalism and experience were evident throughout the trip and made sure we made it safely to the summit and back down. I would specifically ask for him when you book your trip!

    My climbing partner and I had a glorious, exhilarating climb up North Sister. We always climb with…read moreTMG with wonderful experiences in the past, and this time was no exception. It was a very challenging climb, but we always had perfect confidence in our guide, Geoff Lodge. We learned new climbing techniques and exceeded what we previously thought were our capabilities. We are two women (of a certain age but fit), and Geoff, and all of our other guides from TMG, have had tremendous confidence in us and gave us the tools and security to succeed.

    Tree Climbing at Silver Falls

    Tree Climbing at Silver Falls

    (22 reviews)

    This was a truly unique and amazing experience, where else can you even do this??…read more I stumbled on this activity listed on a hotel's website as something to do in the area and thought it sounded really unique and adventurous. My boyfriend said this was the one thing of all the activities he really wanted to do so we signed up. The emailed information was really detailed on where to meet, down to the need to use Google maps vs Apple maps, which was helpful. Megan was our guide/trainer and arrived on time. She spent a lot of time explaining and showing us all of the gear to start - including us holding the gear and practicing opening/closing/using it. Then it was on to the practice tree for her to show us how to get up and down. Then we did it. Once she felt comfortable that we were "okay" (and by ok I guess I mean safe, not necessarily in good shape to climb LOL). We headed over to the old growth tree and learned a little about trees, which was really informational and I'm glad she took the time to educate us. The tree was enormous! Megan then took down all the ropes from the trees and we got to climbing. We got no where near the top when we had to call it quits but it was the adventure of a lifetime for sure and Megan was fab in explaining and being patient with us!

    This was an AMAZING experience! I climbed trees as a kid, and was a self-taught arborist for my…read moreyard, but THIS takes tree climbing to a whole new altitude! Our guide and trainer, Brennan (sp), was exceptional. He was very positive, patient, and encouraging. If you've ever wondered what it must be like to be a spotted owl (or any bird), this POV will definitely give you an idea! Sitting 300 feet above the ground, perched on a branch, watching the sunset was nothing short of MAGICAL! Highly recommend.

    North Sister

    North Sister

    (2 reviews)

    One of the very rare "true alpine" rock climbs in Oregon…read more North is, by far, the hardest of the Sisters. The other two are, more-or-less, long walk-ups. NOT so with North. We encountered legit ice climbing (in the bowling alley) in addition to traversing sketchy high-angle snow slopes and climbing up rock of questionable quality. The summit, oddly, actually has wonderful rock quality...unlike the entire rest of this jenga-stacked mountain. You have to be able to improvise on this mountain, it's not very straight-forward as far as protecting it with a rope is concerned. I would NOT recommend climbing it without a rope either. It's very close to Middle Sister, you can camp on the saddle between the two if you want to do both. Just note that even though the gain from the saddle to the summit isn't huge, it's deceptive. It'll probably take the whole day to summit and come back down again.

    I have attempted to summit the north sister in the summer twice... it's out of my league. The last…read more300ish yards of this hike is a sheer cliff so without a rope or any climbing gear or knowledge your SOL on summiting. A couple things that are worth mentioning are the fact that there are no close roads and the terrain/rocks on this mountain are super eroded. I have stepped on a massive three-foot wide boulder and had it slide right on down the mountain. So if your climbing with a friend, watch out for falling rocks. Both times we have hiked up this mountain we camped out the night before as the hike to the base is a long one itself. This is the backcountry, so there are no roads or camping spots. So you will want to be prepared with light gear and portable food. If you are not experienced in mountaineering this is a good mountain to avoid. The weekend after I last attempted to summit this one, an experienced mountaineer died on the same ridge we were on. So it's no joke. But if you do head on out, you will be amazed at the rock formations that you will find. I would imagine that this is a geologist's dream! I couldn't tell you what I was looking at half the time, but it was volcanic and beautiful. This is wilderness land, so you will want to be respectful of the wildlife and pack out what you pack in. Also be extra cautious as help is not close and cell reception is dodgy. Overall I am stoked to have experienced this mountain, but won't be back until I take a mountaineering course or two. Here is a link to the land management agency that manages this land https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/willamette/recarea/?recid=4355 Here is a link to some tips on summiting this beast http://www.summitpost.org/north-sister/150530 Here is a link to a good map of this terrain https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/oregon/middle-and-north-sister-trail

    Broken Top Mountain - hiking - Updated May 2026

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