Italians have an obsession with digestion, and pizza is known (by many) as not being super digestible. So they went and developed more-digestible pizza, and that's where Berberè comes in. Well, as someone who likes to digest her food, although I can't say I usually talk about this on social networks, I can say that I digested Berberè's pizza in a manner that was, uh, A-OK. So, their yeast-free, whole wheat floured pizza (that cost 11 euros for what was not really more than a margherita) was digestible.
But that is the biggest compliment I can give the place. Let's take a step back. I skipped the grand opening because I wanted to taste the food, not fight people to get a slice. Soon after, a certain Yelp Elite who is also a fantastic food blogger posted on her blog about an unacceptably long wait for said pizza, so I decided not to come to this restaurant. Apparently their oven could only do 4 pizzas at a time (I'm not sure if this is still true or if they have managed to build a bigger oven in the meantime), explaining the slow service. Then, a few weeks ago I was at Expo in Milan and ate at the Alce Nero Berberè there and it was SO GOOD, seriously one of the best pizza's I've had in ages. Oozy cheese, delicious crust, amazing flavour combo, for 10 euros. So I thought it was time to try the Florence venue.
We went on a saturday night, booked a table outside for 4 people. We ordered and I had the good sense to ask the waitress to make sure the grilled zucchini on my pizza wasn't pre-made with garlic, to which I am allergic. To her credit, she came back to say yes, it was made that way. I asked for fresh zucchini to be sliced on top instead of the pre-grilled one, which she said was not possible, despite acknowledging that they did actually have the fresh ingredient in-house. According to the writing on the menu, no substitutions can be made. Not for allergies, either, it appears. So I chose a pizza that was basically a margherita with capers, but it took 3 lines to explain the provenance of every ingredient from the tomatoes to the cheese, oregano and capers, so that drew me in (everything sounds nicer with storytelling). I opted for one of the special doughs of the day, a yeast-free number due to the aforementioned digestion.
Our drinks arrived, and my artisan cedrata had been put in the freezer and was a lump of ice, so that got sent back. Half an hour later the 4 pizzas came (reasonable wait time). Mine (pictured in the photo) had the mozzarella on the bottom, then the super special tomato sauce carefully dollopped (cold?) with an icing bag into nice circles (with a measured circumference of 4.5cm) on each slice, precisely decorated with four super special capers. A rather heavy-handed sprinkling of oregano was applied.
How was my pizza, you ask? Extremely underwhelming. Heavy, thick dough (though digestible - wonder how it rises so much though without yeast?) that tastes like sawdust (hey, everything whole wheat kinda does, right?). Cheese had solidified. Sauce cold. Capers good enough. I think they had let it sit out before serving us because it was lukewarm, which meant after the first slice it was just cold. Could the same thing have been made better? Probably had they put the whole thing in the oven, and served it right away, yes. And maybe with a good dose of high quality olive oil over the whole crust, and some salt both on top and inside the dough.
Why did they get 2 stars?
-minus one for the frozen drink
-minus one for my bum falling asleep on the uncomfortable metal folding chairs that are more a nod to fashionable furniture than to ergonomics
-plus one for the waiter who was able to correctly answer the question "what does the word Berberè mean?" (or maybe he was sh*tting us, we didn't really know the answer, but he said it with conviction)
-neutral for the service, neither horrid nor notably wonderful
-minus one for not accommodating food allergies in a place that is so hipster-friendly you have to assume that in any group of 5 people there's going to be 8 different allergies
-minus one for the cold, not really good pizza
-plus one for the fact that I digested my pizza
Can you do math? I can't. read more