This is a hotel that matters ... for those who want modern, hip and flashy, look elsewhere. If you…read morewant to stop back in time and embrace a more genteel and luxurious era of travel, it feels as though Ernest Hemingway or Erroll Flynn could walk through the lobby on the way to the bar at any moment.
Marble everything ... linens and towels embroidered with the hotel's monogram ... robes and slippers ... a nice breakfast buffet. If the walls here could talk ... and they sort of do strewn with black and white photos of past hotel guests. The who's who of the 1940's - 1970's jet set. You won't see a Kardashian on the wall ... thank goodness!
Even when busy, the hotel feels like it is your own. The guests are classy and refined. Coasta Brava (about an hour and change outside of Barcelona) sometimes can draw tacky Instagram 'models' or the fist pumping beach club scene. This hotel does not. If you really want to feel like you are in a world of your own, book mid-week. Weekends tend to fill up with weddings (there were 3 in 3 days during the later part of our stay).
Next door is a small cove/beach which you can walk to and rent paddleboards or small boats. Lots of kayakers. There is a beautiful miles long paved walking path next to the hotel which is a must do. Seriously, the stunning cliffside scenery along this path and charming mansions with their floral walls reminded us of Capri's similar walk. (And maybe even a bit better). We walked 3 miles one evening.
If you can afford it, splurge on one of the rooms with a balcony overlooking the ocean. It's well worth the upgrade, even if it won't come inexpensively. (During our stay a waterfront balcony room was $600/night ... thankfully we are Leading Hotels top tier rewards members and got the upgrade for free. They really do honor the program's upgrade policy here ... including free breakfast.)
The good:
- Wonderful staff. (They have an aire of 'helpful with a hint of snooty haughtiness' perfected). They answer all your questions and will go out of their way for you.
- The hotel answers pre-stay emails and reads reservation notes. It was our anniversary and there was a complimentary chilled bottle of champagne waiting for us. This is standard for Leading Hotels of the World customer service.
- In June there was not a single mosquito to be found! Other places we went, WE were the buffet for bugs.
The not great:
- Despite the rooms having an old school, glamorous luxury to them ... some of the aspects of the decor felt like staying at a wealthy older aunt's home. A bit Victorian chic.
- The bathroom was atrocious. A shower tub combo in a $660/night waterfront junior suite. One shared sink.
- The restaurant situation is iffy. We ate outside one night in the courtyard. It was way too dark ... felt a bit like eating in someone's backyard ... the service was slow and the food was awful. The menu was pub-like and my ham and cheese sandwich was basically like something the school lunch lady would make. Square white bread ... a slice of deli ham and a slice of cheese. Toasted ... not fried in a pan. The elegant breakfast buffet made up for it.
- Lots of construction with drilling, jackhammering and loud trucks. The workers were blasting the soccer game on the radio. Made eating breakfast or using our balcony outdoors in the afternoon tough without ear buds. Nothing the hotel can do but something to note.
- Pool is beautiful but not heated ... it was freezing when we got in until our bodies got used to it.
Overall, 5 stars, no question. We did a blow-out the budget trip to Spain and France and this was our favorite hotel, even despite its shortcomings. It truly feels like a throwback in a luxurious grande dame sort of way. Well worth a day trip ... or a week-long escape. They don't make 'em ... or keep 'em ... like this anymore.
