Took 3-day trip from San Francisco Ferry Building (Amtrak bus to Emeryville) to Chicago in January 2011. Paid for a two-person bedroom with shower and toilet. The price of the ticket ($600) included meals.
My summary review (which I hope Amtrak officials read, unlike the letter I sent to them): Nature gets an A+, Amtrak gets a D. (And I wanted to LOVE Amtrak -- it's the only train option!)
Important Pluses:
1. The train through the Sierras and then the Rockies, both during the daytime. offered incredible scenes in the surround-glass viewing car. Amtrak's predecessors (80 years ago?) deserve a lot of credit for carving out truly arresting views of nature that no one but Amtrak travelers every have! In this respect I agree with other reviewers. Further, nighttime covered Nevada and Utah, and then (second night) eastern Colorado, Kansas, Iowa -- perfect timing!
2. The train was on time. We had no weather problems, which means the train should have been on time and I wondered what would have happened to the schedule if the slightest rain or snow had fallen.
Shortcomings:
1. The sleeping compartment for two was not only impossible cramped (no way two even modest-sized suitcases fit!) but also in a state of disrepair, akin to a third class-motel. Take care if you are purchasing a room vs. taking a seat only. Toilet was dirty when I came in, toilet paper was always wet (it shares a tiny compartment with the shower), sink stopper did not open without a helping hand (think about that when you've brushed your teeth), and the bed (lower, larger bunk) was just plain uncomfortable.
2. The staff at the server level were excellent in the dining car, although not the level you'd hope for (definitely not friendly, for example). Their supervisor, who sat people and delivered the bills, was clearly into minimal work for minimal time, but smiling all the time. With many tables vacant, she would repeatedly seat incompatible people with one another for an hour's meal (e.g., a delightful South Korean backpacking, teenage couple who spoke no English with a 63-year-old man who spoke no South Korean). She unilaterally cut dining room hours from 5:30 to 9 (the posted hours) to 5:30 to 7:45. (But when I showed up at 8:30, she had not choice ....)
3. The man in charge of the car/sleeping facilities in a single car undertook minimal efforts and was heard snoring, sleeping several hours other than his nighttime sleeping hours (9:30-6); that is, he also slept during the day. Minimal service orientation, at best.
4. The quality of meals, food, and preparation, was generally poor except for the least demanding meal, breakfast, which was excellent and could not be better. Lunch was very disappointing: commercial-tasting, bland choices (hamburgers, potatoes with some sauce, etc.). Dinner was the biggest disappointment because the anticipation was high. Chicken was fried and then, for reheating, baked; the fish was indistinguishable from generic fish. The NY steak alone stood out as passably good.
A harsh judgment? Possibly, but I can say that similar trains in Europe operate at a substantially higher level than Amtrak in terms of service, food quality, and comfort and appearance. Only price is similar. I want our country to have national and regional train-based transportation systems, but Amtrak as it has developed will deter not attract the people it needs and wants - and those many people who WANT to love it until they experience it as it is now. Like Egypt, it needs a radical change in management. read more