Always comforting to my 75% Danish sanguine heritage to dine in a place claiming to be a spot Hans…read moreChristian Andersen chowed down at. The antiquities and wall art, the dancing live candles, and impossibly odd layout of the bathroom alone were all authentic.
A bit odd for me and another patron in the loo to have me swing open my door to the only stall, only to find him standing there recycling some Pilsner! We both laughed - what are you going to do
do?
Now. Reservations. As suspected, not necessary at 6 pm on a Wednesday. I made one, being politely naive. As I came into the cellar eatery, braining myself on a low beam, the diminutive waiter snorted a giggle then made a bit of a show of it to search out where single me would sit. Turns out 75% of four room were empty. Still how could I complain? Try what I did: follow the reservation rules then break them by showing up to try your luck. I'm sure Dave's have been doing that since 1720.
$95.00 later however...no Tuborg or Carlsberg - just a fast talking waiter in - I kid you not - a man's white undershirt assuring me all Pilsners were the same. Nope. He lost interest in stopping by my table, instead pollinating the other four double occupancy tables like a busy bee. That got a bit tedious after finishing dinner and sitting there listening to a gratingly loud Swedish girl and what looked like Stellan Skårsgard hanging on to his snaps like a conversational life preserver.
First I ordered the exorbitantly priced three pieces of cheese from Bornholm, the little island three hours away that Russia tried keeping after WW II ended. But like the Russo taste for freedom, their flavor was somewhat nonexistent but the jam was tasty - two types - yes I ordered the desert cheese because the appetizers were unappetizing to my Jersian palette .
Now the main course of Roast Pork - Flæskesteg! Served with white and caramelized potatoes, pickled red cabbage, and gravy! On a scale of 10 perhaps a 7 with the gravy being the most sublime. Yes I know they say Hans wrote the Ugly Duckling here But I've been to the Caffe Trieste where Francis Ford Coppola wrote the Godfather in the North Beach area of 'Frisco. You come for the story but stay for the food. Realizing a desert would only result in still more of the slowest service since Chania in Crete, I called it a night. Saved myself from topping $100 for a so so but very cozy dinkng experience.
Perhaps I'm searching for the elusive sublime authentic Danish dinner in vain. No one cooks like
my Mom did.
But maybe I should eat what Andersen ate which is lovingly recounted on. their website: The famous Danish poet frequented the The Little Pharmacy every day in 1854, while he wrote The Ugly Duckling and enjoying the lunch and a snaps. H. C. Andersen's favorite dish was 3 kinds of herring with onion, capers, bread, fat and butter. Imagine what can come from a good herring and a snaps...apparently a hideous water fowl and tons of clamoring child fans!