Astute readers may have noticed that I don't "Yelp" as frequently nor as passionately as I did a few years ago. "Why," you ask? The answer is that I struggle to find new places, little hidden gems, that reignite the embers of my dying Yelper fire. Ever so often, though, I will stumble upon a place so unique, so worthy of praise that I suddenly feel a second wind, a newfound passion to rage against the dying of the light. Wahoo's Seafood is exactly that kind of place. To say that I'm impressed would be an understatement; Wahoo's is a contender for the best seafood restaurant located within at least 100 miles of San Antonio. If you're familiar with my reviews, then you know that is high praise indeed.
Before I begin the review, please indulge me as I provide a brief history of the restaurant and how it came to be. Chef/owner Scott Thibodeaux -- a native Houstonian/restaurant industry veteran with possibly the most Cajun-sounding surname ever -- opened Wahoo's Seafood Market in Kerrville about a decade ago. Dissatisfied with the quality of seafood available in and around San Antonio, Scott decided to travel to and from Galveston (at least once a week by car!) in order to procure the freshest fish, oysters, and shrimp available. Now *that* is dedication! The market became so popular that Scott and his wife April decided to expand to a full-service restaurant at a slightly larger location about a mile away.
Now that I've provided a frame of reference for why this place is amazing (yes, a superlative!), here is the review. Enjoy!
Seafood gumbo (5.0/5.0): A rich, robust roux with a dark brown hue sets the foundation of Scott's gumbo, which I place among the best I've had anywhere. The spice level is perfect (just a little kick), the rice is cooked al dente, and the seafood components are fresh and plentiful. The four huge wild-caught Gulf Coast shrimp are plump and meaty. The oysters are shucked fresh in house, and the crab claws are meaty and full flavored. The crusty French bread -- sourced directly from Gambino's Bakery in New Orleans -- is no afterthought, either. I used the bread to sop up every last drop of scrumptiousness from that bowl. Note: the gumbo is available in three sizes: an eight-ounce cup, a 16-ounce bowl, and a 24-ounce horse trough. Adjust your belt buckle accordingly.
Pick-Two Combo (5.0/5.0): The menu gives customers the option to choose two of the following: shrimp, oysters, and/or catfish. I couldn't be bothered to choose, so I asked for all three, a request the kitchen was happy to oblige for a reasonable upcharge. The seafood options are available fried, grilled, or blackened. On this occasion, I chose fried simply because I was in the mood for fried seafood. As I mentioned in my review of the gumbo, the shrimp were plump and delicious. These wild-caught shrimp have a slightly sweet flavor profile absent from the farmed variety to which most consumers are accustomed. The oysters, likewise, were fresh and brimming with flavor. Even the catfish -- an afterthought at many seafood places -- tasted fresh, with a flaky, meaty interior and a crunchy breading. I was equally impressed with my two sides (included in the cost) that day: a creamy potato salad redolent with the spices of Creole mustard, and haricots verts (French green beans) cooked Lyonnaise style with bacon and butter.
"The Don" Special (5.0/5.0): I know better than to order a steak at a seafood joint, but Wahoo's is no ordinary seafood joint. "The Don" (not, as far as I know, named after Dr. Don B., whose review of Wahoo's is definitely worth reading) consists of a 16-ounce, Prime-graded, blackened ribeye topped with Pontchartrain sauce (a rich, buttery seafood sauce) and four blackened shrimp. The steak was pan-seared to a perfect medium rare. This cooking technique rendered the fat along the edges, gave the surface a nice crust, and kept the interior juicy. The seafood sauce paired perfectly with the steak; I could taste every component (steak, blackened seasoning, butter, Parmesan cheese, crawfish, and crab) in every bite. Shrimp is a difficult protein, as finding the sweet spot between undercooked and overcooked/rubbery can be tricky, especially when blackened. Unsurprisingly, the four blackened shrimp atop my steak were cooked perfectly. The blackening seasoning was intensely flavorful but not overpowering.
Bread Pudding (5.0/5.0): In less capable hands, bread pudding can become a cloyingly sweet pile of mush, but when executed with love, it can be a celebration of simple ingredients. At Wahoo's, Chef Scott uses French bread from Gambino's Bakery (the same bread that accompanies the gumbo), a few raisins, and a bourbon sauce with strong notes of caramelized sugar and a subtle alcoholic bite. I can't think of a better iteration of this dessert.
As usual, I have a lot more to say, but I have already approached my character limit for this review. You people should know me by now. If I say go there, then go there! read more