Background: One rarely walks down a back alley in a strange city to find a spanking new enterprise…read moreby a Michelin-starred chef. But our sharp-eyed friend spied a "now open" sign on the unimposing entrance to MVH Oxford on North Parade Street. Telling us she had been tracking the renovations for over 4 months, she immediately went inside, startling the staff setting up for the evening. But, as a neighborhood resident, she quickly established rapport and secured a reservation for that evening.
It is so new it doesn't have a web site yet, but some pre-dinner research search piqued our interest: the proprietor is Michael Von Hrushka who earned his Michelin Star in a previous venture as the chef-owner of the well-known Birdcage restaurant in London some years ago.
MVH Oxford is a small space and the interior has a modest contemporary look, with clean lines, white walls, and well-spaced tables. It is clear that no attempt is being made to dazzle diners with the surrounding ambience, just a comfortable space that intends to concentrate on fine dining at a fair price. We were about to find out if the goal would be met. To be fair, even with a highly credentialed owner, a new restaurant open for only two weeks can be a bumpy experience. So we were prepared to cut them some slack.
The menu is fixed price (two-course at £24 and three-course at £29), gives a wide range of selections, and has a pan-Asian fusion theme. Since I'm not a trained food critic, I can't use phrases like "subtle, well balanced flavors that mingle on the palette," I can only tell you what we ate and whether we liked it.
Things got rolling quickly as our waiter brought each of us a complimentary demitasse of "chestnut cappuccino," a creamy froth of a soup with tiny mushrooms and a chestnut infusion. It was a big hit with all of us.
As a group of four, we opted to pay the small added charge for a pair of "selected 4 starters for two people." This meant the chef would select them, so we would be rolling the dice at the get-go. We elected Mike, our little group's most knowledgeable wine expert, to choose the wine for the evening. He decided a good test of the establishment would be to order the house red. A bottle of Cotes de Gascogne (£17) was brought to the table and won his approval.
The starters soon appeared and were impressive in portion size as well as appearance. The chef's choices were fresh spring rolls with a small vessel of very hot chili sauce on the side; mussels in a very subtle coconut milk broth; a warm risotto featuring a flavorful goat cheese; and a moderately spicy beef and vegetable stir fry. The four selections provided a well-considered combination despite their diversity. We were quite happy with the entire set.
The following main course descriptions are quoted from the menu. Mike ordered the Stir-fried Hungarian Chilli Pig with artisan butter spaetzle. Laurel opted for the Seared creedy duck supreme, fricassee of Girolle and cherries with summer truffle and Madeira jus. My wife chose the Roast rump of Noke Farm lamb with parmentier potatoes, wilted spinach, shallot confit, and red wine jus. I went for baked sea bass
Mike really liked the Chilli pig, but said it was a bit heavy for his taste. Laurel described the duck as perfectly cooked and imaginatively flavored. My wife, who knows her lamb, said that it had a wonderful flavor and a perfectly prepared accompanying sauce. I would say the fish was perfectly cooked, but the flavors were a little bland. All of the dishes were attractively presented.
Given the generous portions, we decided against going for the desserts, but the list did look tempting.
In summary, we saw none of the signs of a new operation struggling to get its footing. The service was smooth, efficient, and friendly. Our waiter was a consummate professional who knows his craft. My five-star rating here takes into account that the operation is in its infancy, the prices are quite reasonable for what is delivered, and my confidence that greater things are in store for those who are lucky enough to live nearby.
