When I heard that a new restaurant was opening up in downtown Dartmouth with a Mexican head chef and the backing of Oxalis' owners, it was an easy call to expedite Tulipan's nudge to the top of my "To Eat At" list. Sampling their tacos at the Downtown Dartmouth Food Crawl was a delicious teaser as well.
As of booking ourreservation, they were only booking two weeks in advance, so you have to be "on it" to get a spot. When we showed up, the restaurant was in the process of filling up with the first round of reservations, and some walk-ups found themselves SOL.
The space was lively and loud, with some changes made to the bar and grill area since the previous occupant, Sip.
We were kindly notified that the last three of their steak taco special were ours if we wanted - and we were wanted. The menu is generally shareable, with a handful of small bites, slightly bigger veg and taco dishes, and then larger, a la carte, proteins.
We settled a fun selection of dishes - the Caesar de Pepino (a cucumber Caesar salad), grilled asparagus, yuca fries, and the grilled Cornish hen.
Before our food started streaming in, we were given a little appetizer of a bean dip and house-made tortilla chips. The crunchy chips were perfect for dipping in the smooth and savoury spread.
The Caesar de Pepino was an impressive sight when it arrived, with a mountain of whisper-thin pecorino cheese topping the hidden chunks of cucumber, and itself topped with a corn gremolata. I really liked the crunch of the cucumber as a base for a Caesar salad, and the sauce packed a fishy punch with an authentic sardine in the mix. The gremolata added its own crunch and savoury depth to the salad.
Next up was our round of tacos, and we were all very impressed (and thankful our server got them held for us!). This was one of the best tacos I've ever had. The tender cubes of steak almost took a backseat to the excellent blue corn tortilla and the charred onion sauce, with further green onions and micro greens for garnish. Taco perfection.
I may have undersold the grilled asparagus earlier, because it comes with a hefty dollop of burrata, and we all know that burrata makes everything better. The creamy cheese paired perfectly with the light char of the vegetal asparagus.
I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the yuca fries. They're a common sight on Central and and South American menus, but they're often dense and not at all crispy. I don't know what fancy chef stuff is going on behind the scenes, but these were the best yuca fries I've ever had! Light and with impossibly crisp exteriors, they were eminently dip-able in the confit garlic and jalapeno aioli.
Last, but not least, was the Cornish hen. Cooked sous vide and then finished on the grill, the meat was ultra tender and the skin was crisp, and a bright salsa verde provided a little contrast for our taste buds.
I also tried their tequila flight, which was a really great way to contrast the three main grades of tequilas (Blanco, Reposado and Anejo) and a mezcal. It was really interesting, but I highly suggest having a full belly or sharing with someone (I did both, and still felt it haha).
I'd be really pressed to think of a restaurant as new as Tulipan that's doing so many things so well right out of the gate. If they can keep this up, they'll quickly, and rightfully, become a fixture of the city's food scene. read more