And so I return. Purpose, to visit and review The White Swan months later, and for good reason.
First off, if you're here, there's a very good chance the reason is you're participating in the famed English Coast to Coast hike from St. Bees to Robin Hood's Bay. The tiny hamlet of Danby Whiske, panned by the hike founder Alfred Wainwright deserves better.
On the day of my visit it was in the midst of that very walk on an utterly miserable 23 mile stretch in the rain. Soaked? No, I was under water by the time I arrived at The White Swan around 12:30 p.m. after trudging some 13 miles plus through fields, pastures, paved roads and more. I sat at a picnic table outside debating the merit of being rude and asking to come in dripping from head to toe. I stuck my head, asked the man tending bar if I could have tea outside as I was a wet mess. A few minutes later a different man emerges, says, "the man says you'll have your tea inside." I said, but I'm pretty messy. "He said you'd have it inside, nevertheless."
And so, in I went, did my best to dry off a bit, and promptly savored an entire pot of fine English tea laced with real cream. Heaven help me... resurrected. I watched as a few locals entered, marched to the pub at which point pints were poured minus any orders being stated. Proper. I like that. 30 minutes later I departed again in a misty rain, but energized, and plowed through the remaining 10 miles before reaching my destination.
The White Swan is forever in my debt for allowing that stay inside, the warm pot of tea, the acceptance. Thank you, White Swan. Next time I'll cut that hike in half, make a stay in the small village and celebrate the day with a proper pint. You're my style. read more