I have two apologies to make; the first to YOU, Dear Reader, for this is not so much a review as a meandering thesis, and the second to what was described in dismissive terms recently in the TV programme Bonekickers as a rockery on the A303. For years I have driven over the downland and growled softly at that bunch of rocks in a field and snickered at damp Japanese tourists trudging anti-clockwise round the circle. Then, after catching a documentary on National Geographic, and passing by on a fine autumn afternoon, Stonehenge finally MADE SENSE. By all means, good people, do visit the Henge, but please be aware that it is as representative of its surroundings as a discarded carousel horse would be in the middle of a field if you were trying to extrapolate Alton Towers from it. The Henge is merely a tiny part of a huge ritual landscape. When you visit Stonehenge, walk south-west of the circle and gaze around. You will see over a score of tumuli not so much scattered as GATHERED around it; and these are merely the survivors of many hundred that probably stood before farming flattened and destroyed them. The area was the site of a HUGE international fair, celebrating life and death in its most intense way. It is an accepted fact that some of the stones were dragged from Wales to be in the circle. I don't believe it - I think they were OFFERED. They were BROUGHT as a gift to be part of the huge undertaking by people who probably came from Wales not so much year in, year out as CENTURY in, CENTURY out. And, I would hazard a further guess, people came from not only all over Britain, but also Europe. Anyone who has seen the Standing Stones at Carnac will understand the international values of these sites, and so I believe that people brought their dead from across the Channel (however wide it was then.) to lay them to rest with the other revered ancients on the site. The dead who lay within those tumuli come from several nations, as did the live visitors who took part in the great fairs; those to celebrate the Spring Solstice, the Winter Solstice, the shortest night, and the longest. Those occasions where darkness gave way to light, and those where life showed itself at its strongest, where birth was all around. The dead were brought by their families for hundreds, if not thousands of miles to be laid to rest in this magic landscape. And those tumuli did not build themselves. They had to be a huge undertaking, built not just by local people, but by a communal group - those taking part in the fair and celebrating its meaning. In two places (hidden in woodland at the Eastern and Western edges of the site) are family tumuli, laid out in lines. Not so much tumuli as Mausolea. This alone shows the respect that the site represents. So, when you travel to Salisbury, and have enjoyed the stately Cathedral, and, hopefully, marvelled at Old Sarum as well, please visit the Henge, but don't think you've done it just because you have stared at some rocks. Their secrets have been decoded. Look at the whole downland site. Think. And enjoy. read more