Tucked away in an office complex set back a distance from Skippack Pike, Ristorante Castello might easily be passed by without notice. The only hint of its presence, a wisp of blue & white awning... In my capacity as a professional "hired belly," however, I've discovered that hard-to-find restaurants are usually well worth finding - and Ristorante Castello appears to be no exception.
Stop by for a quiet weekend lunch in a nearly empty dining room, and you'll think the place hadn't been found at all... On the other hand, drop in on a free-for-all Saturday night, as our party of six did recently (the former Fine Arts bowling team and their significant others), and you'll get a much clearer picture. The night of our visit, the place was, quite literally, packed to the gills.
And the reason for its popularity quickly becomes clear: The northern Italian cuisine is carefully prepared and nicely presented; the prices, while not inexpensive, are certainly reasonable given the quality of the food; and the service, even in the midst of such mayhem, acquits itself with suitable distinction. In addition, patrons may tote along a vintage(s) of their own choosing, which certainly puts a less significant dent in one's pocketbook.
To start things off, diners encounter a host of seafood suspects - mussels/clams/calamari fra diavolo, oysters Rockefeller & Blue Point - as well as salads of spinach, Caesar and caprese. In this case, though, I think I'd opt for the more traditional Italian preludes... bruschetta, for instance. The restaurant's homemade bread is grilled, then brushed with olive oil and topped with fresh roma tomatoes, basil & olive oil.
This is a relatively simple dish, a no-brainer, if you will... but a lot can still go wrong. Insufficient seasoning is a major culprit. Or if prepared too soon, the entire enterprise can degenerate into a soggy mess. On the other hand, if the bread is a bit too crisp & crunchy, it could crumble into oblivion at the very first bite and send a shower of diced tomatoes, et al., cascading into your unsuspecting lap. Fortunately, Castello's benchmark rendition prompts no such worries.
The Carpaccio di manzo is another sure winner. This is a typical Italian dish consisting of beautifully arranged raw, wafer-thin slices of filet mignon. It was invented and popularized by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry's Bar in Venice, and named after Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio. The beef is served with olive oil, lemon and, in this case, garnished with basil leaves and shaved parmesan cheese. If you are incurably carnivorous, this is a marvelously tasty starter.
La parmigiana - layers of Italian eggplant and fresh tomato sauce topped with fresh mozzarella and finished in the oven - is basically a fancy name for mini eggplant parm. It wasn't the greatest variation on this Neapolitan theme I've ever tasted, but still quite good... and a very comforting starter on a cold winter's night.
Ristorante Castello's pastas, which are available in both appetizer and entrée portions, are also worthy of consideration. Possibilities run the gamut... from penne pomodoro with red, pink, or vodka sauce to homemade potato gnocchi with gorgonzola to farfalle with diced salmon to ravioli stuffed with either vegetables or a combo of lobster, shrimp & scallops in vodka sauce.
Two dishes, sampled during that aforementioned quiet weekend lunch, however, were particularly enjoyable. The first was an excellent fettuccini Bolognese, eggless pasta smothered in a rich meat & tomato sauce infused with a touch of cream. But even better, in my opinion, was the Linguini Siciliano. Perfectly cooked al dente pasta was tossed with a winning combo of sautéed sliced mushrooms and crumbles of grilled sausage kissed by garlic and splashes of olive oil.
From what I've noted in several visits, when it comes to dinner entrées , the kitchen's daily specials - both pesce and carne - are clearly the way to go here. And the accompaniments of luscious au gratin potatoes and mixed vegetable medley are an added bonus.
The Dover sole, served up with a traditional caper lemon-butter sauce was good but not exceptional. I much preferred the baked branzino, also known as Mediterranean sea bass (pictured). The flesh was firm yet incredibly moist and bursting with flavor. This dish is a winner in every respect and reason enough for a return visit.
For confirmed carnivores, the sumptuous veal chop, another daily special, is something of a must. Incredibly tender, perfectly seasoned, and completely free of excess fat and/or gristle, this presentation was clearly a table favorite. To my way of thinking, veal is the acid test for Italian kitchens... and Ristorante Castello clearly passes with flying colors.
Desserts, if you still have room, vary daily and are well worth considering. And be sure to wash them down with a shot of rich & potent espresso. read more