Widely considered one of the World's true 'destination' restaurants, the sleepy seaside town of…read moreDenia largely known only for its beaches and bounty of fresh Seafood prior to the restaurant's arrival, Quique Dacosta's 2017 menu entitled "DNA: The Search" proved a perfect introduction to the Chef's cooking on Sunday night, the last day of service before a week-long vacation seeing both Quique and his staff in joyous spirits as they presented an "understanding of the kitchen today, the search of a territory: our territory, my territory."
Said by some to be progressive and precise while others prefer 'emotive' or immersive in the region by way of food, Quique Dacosta Restaurante's history is an interesting one dating back to the late Eighties when a teenage Quique began working at the restaurant then called El Poblet, subsequent years seeing the self-taught man develop his skills before taking over a decade later and applying his name to the door in 2009, the accolades soon to follow with three stars from Michelin arriving in 2013 and maintained ever since.
Expectedly luring in far more guests since its recognition from the Red Guide, this allowing Chef Dacosta to open a new version of El Poblet in Valencia in addition to two more casual restaurants in the same city, it was just past 20h00 that the car was parked on a small street next to the restaurant before being greeted by a man named Didier in a small garden, the longtime Maitre D' taking it upon himself to propose a guided tour of the rooftop garden and recently upgraded test kitchen before offering a seat on the patio where guests are invited to sip Cava and enjoy several snacks including a Soup of Smoked Chiles followed by Mussels in Garlic, Pepper and Onions and pickled Squash with freshly picked King Crab.
At this point considered an equal to the likes of Berasategui, the Roca Brothers and Aduriz, the legacy of El Bulli and modernism carried on to some degree in most of Spain's best restaurants though Dacosta seems to be the most committed to maintaining his focus on terroir with every ingredient featured sourced from less than 100km away, it was after a trip through the kitchen that a seat was offered in the dining room dressed in white, flowers and sculpture, the keyholed cloche present on arrival soon removed to reveal two pristine Prawns just as a chalice of Shellfish Bisque was delivered.
Known for his embrace of the land and sea around Dénia, everything from the mountains to the shoreline visible from a rooftop garden in which seeds gathered from elsewhere are grown alongside locally caught Octopus allowed to dry in the breeze, course two of the menu featured that very Octopus grilled and served alongside Mullet Roe and Tuna allowed to bask in the flavors of sweetened Seaweed, the highlight of the course a creamy Ling Roe opened up tableside to spread on Papadum with bold brininess that played point and counterpoint with pickled Onions and Raw Vegetables plus a beverage of light Citrus and aromatic Herbs.
Continuing to wow by way of diverse textures and bold flavors with thin sheets of Almond overlying tiny Shrimp it was with a complimentary pour of Sauternes that course four was presented, the pairing of Monkfish Loin and Liver painted with acid both luxurious and bracing at the same time while a follow-up entitled "The Cloud, the Cockles and the Razor Clams" was an ethereal breath of the Sea atop tender Shellfish and Salmon Roe.
Offering three Grissini with The Cloud, Chef Dacosta reportedly not a fan of Bread despite later choosing present it as a course focusing the diner's attention on the intense sweetness of Corn that had been mashed and piped into a round of Brioche, fans of Crucifers will likely be delighted by a dish called Khaleesi featuring Kale, Broccoli, Quinoa and Fennel while all but the most steadfast vegetarian will be impressed by "The Mount of Olive Trees" focused on the flavors and textures of locally grown Fruit surrounding a fillet of Red Mullet.
Saving heavier proteins for the end of the meal, a plate of tender rice with Sweetbreads and a rich Demiglace given added intensity from Cauliflower crisps, Morels and a Black Truffle reportedly foraged from the nearby mountain, the meal's main course was presented as a study of Duck, the Heart grilled and suspended above Offal packed Dim Sum while the Breast, Liver and Legs were presented to the left in a variety of grilled and fried preparations.
Taking the same approach to sweets as to savories, the focus on locally sourced ingredients and divergent textures yielding a delectable study of Grapes before concluding in a crispy Biscuit atop Semifreddo-like Honey with a light hint of Rosemary, it was alongside Coffee that several Petit Fours were enjoyed, the Apple-centered "Petals of Roses" a worthy signature, as were those on a rock from the garden and in one of the Chef's cookbooks as a Thank You for making the journey to a restaurant that is truly extraordinary.
