This restaurant is a short drive from Furnas, located in the small town of Ribeira Quente, near a beach where parts of the ocean are geothermally heated. The entire town was a pleasure to visit, not yet too overrun by non-local riffraff like ourselves, but still cosmopolitan, cool and savvy. Ponta do Garajau served the same classic, simply prepared Azorean dishes as many other restaurants we visited during our time on Sao Miguel, but the food was made with noticeably better ingredients and better technique -- and that's what separated this wheat from the chaff.
First tip: Reserve. We managed to walk in for an early lunch, but this was by no means a shoe-in. Many walk-in visitors were turned away after us and almost all tables were marked reserved. (Reservations seem big in Azores, in general.)
Second tip: Order seafood. The menu comes with a fish "Bible" translating local fish names into English. Take the hint and order seafood in some form. They do it very, very well. The whole Alfonsino (red sea bream) I tried was gorgeous, grilled perfectly over wood in the traditional way, and simply, perfectly seasoned. It came with a slice of lemon, boiled potatoes, and a butter sauce, which I couldn't bring myself to use as I didn't want anything to obscure the flavors of the perfectly fresh, sweet fish.
We also ordered grilled chicken with fries for the kids -- not at all the bland, pedestrian fare you might expect under such a name. The chicken was incredible, probably free range to judge by the concentrated flavor, texture, and lack of superfluous fat, again seasoned with an expert hand and grilled over wood. This may have been the best grilled (or roasted) chicken we've ever had. Even the fries were well fried, not soggy, tasteless afterthoughts as they were at many island restaurants. Our children treat ketchup like its own food group and after we asked, the staff were nice enough to bring them more packets than I'm sure they thought anyone could humanly need (almost all of which our ketchup-a-tarians quickly dispatched).
Our final dish was a plate of morcela and I think chouriço, grilled and sliced, served with yams (white-fleshed "real" yams, not sweet potatoes), and a sunny-side-up egg. The skin on the sausage had a lovely snap, with crispy edges from the grill. I'm by no means a connoisseur, but we enjoyed the creamy texture of the morcela, the slight hint of nutmeg.
Lunch comes with an unlimited salad bar, which included more varied ingredients than other places we tried on Sao Miguel (though it still left me pining for one of our 30+ ingredient salad bars in NYC). There was red-leafed lettuce, spinach, pickle whole onion, sliced white onion, shredded carrot, cucumber and sliced tomatoes. Again, the devil was in the details. All of these ingredients, though simple, were of superior quality, with the tomatoes being particularly standout. They were an heirloom green and red varietal, not the hard, square, flavorless supermarket sort common elsewhere. As was true elsewhere, only olive oil and vinegar were offered as dressings. Both were of fair quality, here.
We had a bottle of locally-produced Quinta da Jardinete chardonnay with our meal, which was shockingly good. I'm not usually a huge fan of this grape, since it's often over-oaked and abused -- but this winery really treats this grape well, resulting in a nuanced, lightly acidic, minerally, grown-up-style wine that went incredibly well with my grilled fish. Terroir at its best. If I'd had room in my suitcase, I would've carried home a case of this stuff.
Other details:
- Staff asked whether they should bring bread, fresh cheese and olives to the table at the start, rather than bringing it out automatically. As barbaric, gauche Americans, we liked that a lot. (No to bread, since the kids will eat that and nothing else; yes to the excellent olives. Wish we'd accepted the fresh cheese, but hopefully we'll return for that.)
- Lunch seems to be served only on the patio, though I believe there is an indoor dining room. There are umbrellas up, but it still gets hot.
- Bathrooms are spotlessly clean.
- Food and wine menus are brought rolled up in a bottle. Bills are brought in a cute wooden box, with a fresh flower on top. What a classy touch. (The one and only other time I remember seeing this was at a restaurant in Thailand.)
- See above note on gauche, barbaric Americans. We had to ask for food to be wrapped since the tired children seemed about to self destruct halfway through the meal -- and the staff did so graciously, without looking at us like we had three heads. It is not the norm in Azores (or Portugal, or any part of Europe that I know of, really) to wrap food to go.
This is a restaurant you should go out of your way for. read more