You might have noticed that I've taken a break from writing Yelp reviews. Yelp's chosen method of monetizing their platform requires me, out of principle, to step back from voluntary contributions. Having said that, I just had one of "those" restaurant experiences in Central Italy, and to not share it with others would be criminal.
The Ristorante Olmicello offers clean modern Italian dishes in a renovated 900 year old building atop a hill a three hour drive from Rome. Its a quick visit from Campobasso and still worth it from points on the shore near Termoli. Most of the streets in Oratino are too narrow for cars - even the Fiat 126 - and the town's entire population can go uptown in New York City on the same subway train.
Our party of nine asked for "family sizes" and ate the same courses. A fast wait staff filled the table with red wine, water, and sparkling water in caraffes. And an olive tapenade came in several ramekins along with thick-cut, crusty-toasted, peasant bread. Nothing from a jar or a can. The olives were fresh and the oil was young. The depth of flavor without spices warned us of a culinary adventure.
Tintilia is the wine you'd expect in this region, (and it has yet to seriously invade American shores) but Olmicello served a cabernet/merlot blend from San Martino producer Cantine Catabbo. Earthy, ruby jeweled, mouth filling flavor with a small exclamation point of a nose: $95 on any steakhouse wine list. I asked to photograph the bottle but it was green glass with no label.
Before you could say "dunque", everybody got a big square appetizer plate with fried mozzarella beads in marinara in the center. Clockwise from the top: a roasted cubanelle, fried zucchini, grilled pimentos, baked eggplant, a rasher of prosciutto, fried provelone, and deep-fried squash. Boom. Everything made before 7:00 pm.
We were still marvelling at the artistry of the opening salvo when a triangle of raviolis smothered by crushed cherry tomatos - obviously picked while we ate the appetizer. The ravioli was hand-made, al dente, with that hint of doughey-ness that gave it a satisfying bite; mozzarella and riccota made the filling.
Surprisingly, no third course: no one could eat any more. Desert came: perfect cheesecake with strawberries and a light coat of heavy cream; chocolate mousse cake marbled by perfectly unsweet Bavarian cream; and lemon and coconut gelato served in frozen lemon skin and coconut shell, respectively. A shot of strega for non-drivers got the blood boiling.
Olmicello has been around 14 years and displays its awards out front: The Ristoranti d'Italia award every year since 2013, per Gambero Rosso, and the AIC award every year since 2015. The latter award goes to gluten free restaurants.
Nice wifi inside too. I gave my iPhone to my 5-year old to keep him quiet read more