CHARMING ARCHITECTURE, EXCELLENT RESTAURANTS
This New Yorker exiled to San Francisco prides himself in his knowing of and all about the hyper-speed revival of Oakland.
But I have found myself completely blown away over Old Oakland. A bit of background: four decades ago, during my first return to the Bay Area, I was a just-out-of-my-teens musician who scored his first "daytime job" in Downtown Oakland. In 1977, white flight had utterly decimated Downtown, and what is now "Old Oakland" was an outright ghetto. Jump ahead to the early 2000s, "Old Oakland" was a restored beauty without a date to the ball, and the only suitors it had consisted mainly of forlorn and somewhat dubious "non-profits."
Evidently, or so I have read, somebody's brilliant reconfiguration of one of the neighborhood's market centres into a food court collection of upscale, cooler-than-Brooklyn eateries providing superbly rendered cuisine from various parts of the world proved the game changer. That is what I've read. What I actually experienced December 1st, 2017, my first exploration of Old Oakland, blew me away: I had dinner at the tiny but hyper-technique-driven Delage, a meal of amazing Japanese-French fusion-cum-Omakase. Well, as Oakland is a culinary powerhouse, so, ho-hum, Delage is yet another simply outstanding Oakland restaurant. And in true Oakland style, it disguises itself as a cool and "casual" eatery--albeit with a millennialist mission to answer decisively Jimi Hendrix's arch rhetorical question," Are You Experienced?"
Well, after Delage, "Uhh-yeaahuh." Takeaway: "Wot an effin' amazing dinner. Euyup. It's def Oakland, amiright?"
But the walk-through of the neighborhood provided the point of departure, as it immersed me in a fusion of colourful Victorian architecture, engaging, witty boutiques, international markets, a trove of raffish, atmospheric bars, restaurants, cafes, and upscale food courts.
Notably, Oakland's vaunted urban, urbane diversity in all of its startling beauty and low-key but "woke" sophistication filled them all. How could I have previously missed any of this? In the parlance of the day: "W...T...F?"
So, move over cooler-than-Gawd Uptown, Portlandia-by-the-Bay Rockridge, style princess Piedmont Ave, Hipster Planet Temescal,Awakening Lakeshore, Bougie-"Be-Seeing-You" Montclair Village ("Wait! What IS that giant, snarling, white weather balloon, why is it following ME?! And why does everybody say, 'Be seeing you??'"), old slipper-comfortable liberal Glenview, Dreamer Fruitvale,Rebounding Laurel, and Striver-Row-by-the-Bay West Oakland:
Old Oakland is, well, already "THERE." read more