Trendy ethnic music fell like a light drizzle from unseen speakers. A modest wedding party snapped photos behind us. It was comfortable but not ostentatious. The decor matched that from my memory from when I last visited North 54, including its dominating central tree. My sister went Greek on the menu, opening up with a half bottle of red wine. I drank coke with no ice, which was continuously refilled through the experience. My rumbling gut demanded copious amounts of animal protein after weeks of hummus, risotto, and homemade naan bread. It was like my colon was out gallivanting brazenly about town with all my credit cards, ringing up huge charges on hotel rooms, hookers, and blow and it needed to be brought down a rung or two, put in its place and forced to process a half-pound of top grade cow flesh. My family shared a plate of crispy calamari tossed in a sweet chili citrus glaze. I've never been a fan of calamari, but was willing to make an exception for this.
As I stated in a previous entry, it's becoming tradition that if duck is offered on a menu, I order it. My main was Brome Lake duck breast with date orange glaze and truffle risotto. And unlike Chambar, Brome Lake duck is recognizable name. My brother-in-law ordered the lobster ravioli with basil and caramelized onions in a rich roasted garlic tomato sauce while my sister opted for the tenderloin truffle tagliolini with seared beef, caramelized shallots, truffle oil and grana padano cheese. Yes, that sounds like a lot of truffle. With such expensive ingredients, I'm surprised they don't glaze my duck with the bile of a newborn worm from Arrakis...
...Anyone? Anyone? No?
Okay, the point I'm making is that it sounds expensive. I've also read the story of how Gordon Ramsay chewed out a contestant on Masterchef for using truffle oil, even though I've seen him use it himself in a meal. In defense, he used two drops, which might have been what the chef used here. All I could gleam was the astounding flavor. Like I said in my Savoy review, and later recently with Chambar (although I ate there after North 54), I've never really experienced lackluster duck. I would never want to prepare it at home; how could I measure up? Although I would rate North 54's plate as inferior to both Chambar's and Savoy's, that would be like trying to find the inferior sports car maker from Lamborghini, Ferrari, and Porsche. And in the range of fowl experiences, Twisted Cork's duck was under North 54, and considering that I'm weighing North 54's culinary quality next to one of London's and one of Vancouver's best reviewed restaurants, I still consider North 54's contender a solid bet. Continuing with the car metaphor, it would be like running a race between the aforementioned supercar companies and then throwing in a Gumpart Apollo and then being shocked when the small racer keeps up (and depending on the model, far surpassing).
My sister praised her plate, and after sampling it, I can agree. We ended the experience with a triumvirate of desserts. You see, this is what happens when you thoroughly enjoy your time in a restaurant; you want to stay and order more food. There is an argument about the balance of good service and food versus pricing. With North 54, we looked for a reason to remain and soak in the comfortable yet elegant atmosphere. Add to that the amazing service--I've spoken to length about how much I enjoy local popular spots like White Goose, Twisted Cork, and Pan, but North 54 has one aspect that I have never seen beaten...the front of house. Every restaurant in town could take a lesson from North 54 on how the front of house can set the tone for an entire experience.
North 54 impressed me more than my expectations. It was previously mentioned as being a great restaurant to take your wife, fiancée, girlfriend, or potential prospect you REALLY wanted to impress. So to the women out there that read this, that is your litmus test...not that you should actually lick anything--okay, let me try another metaphor. It's your barometer in how you measure a man. North 54 is the indicator of quality--that lightning bolt that should shudder in your soul, telling you that someone put some actual thought in their decision. Don't do what I did and take my date to The Keg and then pay for part of the meal with a coupon.
Yes, I did that. In defense, that was over ten years ago. To compare it with another top-end restaurant, White Goose, I would say that the latter is where you your spouse for an anniversary, where North 54 is where you take a date if trying to make an impression. The tables in 54 are more spaced out, stressing intimacy.
So...White Goose to celebrate; North 54 to get laid.
Food: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Presentation: 5/5
Value: 5/5
Recommendation: 5/5 read more