Born out of the legacy of Pjoltergeist Chef Atli Mar Yngvasson opened Katla, a space named after an…read moreIcelandic volcano that serves a nightly tasting and bar bites focused on flavors from Korea, Thailand and Mexico.
Migrated from a small basement to soaring ceilings and 45 seats, the open kitchen with lots of fire stretched in front of a larger one in back, Katla utilizes mostly local ingredients but bold flavors and family-style service to impart a vibe matched to 80s rock playing a bit too loudly overhead.
Quite the opposite of "New Nordic," Atli's cooking more focused on Meat and Salt than Flowers or fermentation, it is with Frozen Margaritas in hand that most guests get started on small bites including August's Pork Rinds matched to Bacon Aioli and Crab Tostadas complimented by creamy Avocado.
Lighted by lamps and expansive windows, service not particularly friendly but efficient, course three finds Turnips softened by Milk amidst Mussels and Roe while its follow-up of spicy Prawns are good are their own but better atop fluffy freshly steamed Bao.
Loading everything with Umami, quite unlike his Scandinavian contemporaries, Turbot arrives next in a sizable portion flecked with char, each bite picked or sucked from the bone nicely cooked and ready to be eaten on its own or augmented by condiments including Salsa, Peppers or Rice.
Open late at the bar, Pepper Crab a favorite amongst walk-ins choosing to eat a la carte, Katla's Duck Mole eats every bit as earthy and aromatic as many in Mexico while Dessert of housemade Chips, Coconut Sorbet and piquant Chocolate is as tasty as it is simple.