The NNSS (or Nevada Test Site, colloquially) is normally closed to the public...but they give a FREE tour once a month, to those interested in nuclear power and secret gub'mint stuff. The tour is only available to U.S. Citizens (I think), and gets booked up far in advance...so reserve a spot early (like, 6 months early! Not kidding -- you really have to plan in advance).
This tour will take an entire day -- departing the Atomic History Museum just off the Strip at 7:30am, and returning around 4:30pm -- so you should bring a lunch and/or snacks. There is also the option to buy food at the commissary at the Test Site, which offers reasonably priced but greasy fare like burgers, etc.
Most of the time is spent driving -- the NNSS is about 70 miles out of town, in the middle of the desert. I recommend sitting on the right-hand side of the bus, as you will have the best view of Creech Air Force Base on the way up, as well as the approach to the Test Site.
This is a SLOWWW moving tour -- most people who take it are older, and it takes about 15 minutes for everyone to get off the bus at each site, and then another 15 for everyone to get back on. Additionally, we made no less than three stops at two different cafeterias, for everyone to use the restroom and get coffee/food....so I'd say fully half the tour is just getting on/off the bus to eat, drink and pee.
The other half is spent driving around to various areas at the Test Site, some of which they let you get out and look around at. They let you out at a bomb crater, a tower that used to house an underground bomb, and an area where they detonated an above-ground bomb. They drive you through many other areas, including the fake houses they built to see the effects of a nuke blast on suburban homes, and the area where they store hazardous waste. This was the most interesting part of the tour for me -- it was astonishing to see how they stack up shipping containers full of hazardous waste, then bury them in an unlined pit covered in 8 feet of dirt.
Overall, prepare to spend a lot of time sitting on the bus. They do show semi-informative videos on the way up, and the tour guide talks about the history of the place and points out interesting sights along the way....but it's still a long, slow day. So be prepared.
No cameras or cell phones are allowed, but they do take a group photo at one of the craters, and everyone gets a free copy back at the museum. For a FREE tour this is an exceptional value, and although it's frustrating at times to keep to the slow, kindergarten-field-trip pace...it's your only option to get on this base, so it's totally worth it.
Everything is FREE, but many guests did tip the bus driver and the tour guide at the end. read more