I will preface this review by stating that we had an unfortunate incident en route to our visit to the Vatican. Hence, my mood was not great when we arrived. That may or may not color my judgement of how our overall visit went. FWIW.
We had purchased tickets in advance for an entry time of 10 a.m. They will let you go in maybe 10 - 15 minutes early but not much before. When we entered, there was a security screening (bag X-ray). We did not, however, have to check our medium-sized backpack. Next, we had to exchange our vouchers for actual tickets. We tried their automated kiosks for this, but they didn't work. We then got in a short line (maybe 8 - 10 people) and handled it with a staffer in one of 3 - 4 booths. The line moved swiftly.
We entered and rode the escalator up to the main (first) level. One of our party had been here before, and suggested that we go and check out the Sistine Chapel first. That was not a bad suggestion, but I'll pause here to discuss how the Vatican handles crowding. The museum has the form of an elongated rectangle (picture it with the long side vertical). You enter at the bottom and the Sistine Chapel is at the top. The only form of crowd control (in terms of entry) that the Vatican does is via ticket sales. Once the crowd is inside, there are few means of limiting how many people at once can access a given area. Their solution to this problem is queuing. They can only control what route you can follow, so as the day goes on they progressively make the route to the Sistine Chapel longer and longer. One result of this is that if you want to see some things at the far end (away from) the chapel, the queue may start to back up there (thus limiting your access). I'd humbly suggest that they consider some sort of timed entry to the chapel itself as opposed to the current scheme, but whatever.
The 'rectangle' is also 2 floors tall. We walked the length of one side to the chapel, looking at various art and decoration along the way. If I went her again (which I'm not super inclined to do, honestly), I'd book a guided tour. You'd probably get a lot more out of it. There were some interesting segments along the gallery - a 'map room' with part of the Italian peninsula detailed, plus a lot of super-ornate wall and ceiling paintings. We eventually arrived at the far end and happened to skip or take a wrong turn by which we missed a Raphael-themed room (The School of Athens). Given the conga-line method of access control, we were not able later to come back to this area.
The Sistine Chapel - I found it smaller and more dimly lit than I expected. It was interesting to see, but all professional photos I've seen of it were much clearer and brighter. You are not allowed to take photos there, also. The crowding wasn't too bad when we were there, but it seemed to be ramping up.
Supposedly you can access St. Peter's Basilica directly from somewhere near the chapel (which would make sense given its function), but we did not take advantage of this. Honestly, given how long the line to the chapel was later in the day, you might save time by going around the outer wall and getting in via the line outside the church...
There were some interesting bits of art and artifacts spread around. We were not able to see a few items as the conga-line queue for the chapel got extended all the way back to the other end of the rectangle, such that you'd have to commit to going through it just to see some other rooms...
We did end up eating lunch in the Vatican cafeteria. They appeared to have a sort of food court option on one side and (maybe) a table-service place on the other (?). We opted for the cafeteria. Prices were not terrible, but it wasn't super cheap either. They had multiple stations and options (we mostly got boxed salads). Other than exiting and finding a restaurant outside, there really isn't another option.
The exit is via a huge spiral staircase. It affords great photo opportunities near the top looking down, so definitely check that out before you leave.
My summary - if they offered some deal where you could pay extra and tour the place in the evening without the crowds or the huge line for the Sistine Chapel, I might come back. Otherwise, I don't think I need to re-visit this place. read more