I got pregnant in 2019, and one of the last things I did before entering the baby years was…read morecomplete a 5,000-piece jigsaw puzzle of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. I'd seen pictures of it, of course, but didn't realize how crazy it was until I spent who knows how many of hours of my life on that giant puzzle, which covered my entire dining room table.
That was a big undertaking, but it was literally nothing compared to the once-in-several-millennia feat of the ceiling itself: 5,000 square feet of frescoes painted by Michelangelo, standing on a scaffold and working from below. The frescoes show scenes from Genesis, including the Creation of Adam, one of the most famous paintings of all time. They're colorful, energetic, and a little bizarre. I enjoyed staring at them for weeks while I worked on the puzzle. The ceiling is, of course, 1,000 times more impactful in person, a genuinely breathtaking masterpiece, unlike anything else in the world.
Then there's The Last Judgment, the enormous apocalyptic fresco painted by Michelangelo on the altar wall twenty-five years after the ceiling, when he was in his 60s. It's powerful and dynamic, roaring with life, with over 300 figures in a work that encompasses the heights of heaven and the depths of hell. At its center is a buff Jesus, his physique modeled after the famous Belvedere Torso, which also resides in the Vatican Museums.
We visited the Sistine Chapel under ideal conditions: a Monday morning in mid-November, with a small group tour. I gather that it gets crowded and sweaty during peak season, and I feel lucky that we got to see it in such serenity. Our tour guide prepared us for the visit by telling us the chapel's history and pointing out key points on a printed sheet before we entered. There were strict rules once we went in: no photos, no videos, and no talking. The no talking rule seemed to be the most relaxed, but the chapel felt holy and hushed even with some low chatter. We were able to find seats on one of the benches along the walls and gawk at the ceiling and The Last Judgment at our leisure.
If I never see the Sistine Chapel again, I will remember the experience for the rest of my life. I hope to go back, though, even if it is a crush of bodies. It might even be fitting to view The Last Judgment while writhing in a sea of humanity.