Another peak in the central Oregon Cascades, Mt Washington is the "nipple-shaped" mountain to the south (to the left, if you're looking at the mountains from Bend) of Three Fingered Jack. (review here: https://www.yelp.com/biz/three-fingered-jack-sisters) Like TFJ, this is one of the very few alpine rock climbs in Oregon that take you to a mountain summit. Also like TFJ, this is a pile of rotting kitty litter. The rock ain't good here folks. If Mt Jefferson eroded for another couple million years, you might end up with something looking like this here mountain. Unlike TFJ, I will say that the routes (yep, there is more than one way to climb this fossilized fecal plug) here make a bit more sense. Or, as they say in the bolt-clipping world: "less contrived". Despite 3-star'ing a mountain, like an A-hol, I have actually climbed this mountain twice, by two different routes: North Ridge: A couple pitches of ~5.2ish rock. Very straight-forward approach and rappels. This is the line 99% (made up that number) of parties take. Probably your best bet if you just want to peak-bag. West Ridge: 5.7R? 5.7X? Not sure what the grade on this ridge of broken china plates and chandeliers is. The protection was often not good. The holds could be slotted right out if you pulled outward on them. I may or may not have been belayed up by someone on a single rusty piton that was poorly "equalized" to a single rattlely hex. I was not impressed. To get to this chossy beauty, you do the North Ridge approach and then side-hill about a quarter around the mountain to access this line. If you do this route, take double ropes, and know how to use them to reduce rope-drag. Some of us didn't. A funny story about this mountain. The most thrilling route was always supposed to be the West *Face* but, it fell off. That's right. It doesn't exist anymore. An entire face of this mountain decided to call it quits one day. Access is via the PCT and pretty easy. Worth bagging the summit, once. read more