This is THE iconic place to go, definitely in all of Portugal, and maybe even beyond that…read more
Just looking at the nearly 100,000 Google Maps reviews, more than I've seen at any restaurant, explains it. This place has been open since monks were selling pasteis de nata in the early 1800s to make ends meet, and the secret recipe is apparently locked up and only known to a few people. Enough legends surround this place to make it packed with people every hour that it's open.
It's so shrouded, in fact, that the egg tarts here are called Pasteis de Belem - not even the Pasteis de Nata used across the rest of Portugal.
What really surprised me at first was how large the dining room was inside. When waiting in line, it doesn't feel particularly large, but once you get in you're greeted with a cavernous set of rooms with hundreds of mini tables throughout.
Since we were here for lunch, along with the obvious Pasteis de Belem orders, I also got an Iberian Ham sandwich, pasteis de bacalhau, and a spinach quiche.
The main part of this is going to be focused on the pasteis de belem, since that's what everyone is here for.
I'm happy to say the 200 year old recipe still hits. These are amazing.
The first thing you notice is the perfect dark brown spots on the top, indicating a top-tier bake. But when you take your first bite is when you're met with that feeling that - yes, this was in fact worth it. The outside of the pastry is perfect - bursting with flaky layers and a crispiness that has to be heard to be believed. The edges rise slightly over the top just to provide that extra crunch that's irresistible. The inside is just as spectacular. It's creamy, eggy, soft, but avoids being too sweet. One way I can think of describing it is like a soft cheesecake without the sourness. It would be tough not to go to rehab for getting addicted to how good this is. The top stays just a bit harder than the inside which is practically butter in terms of its texture.
I could talk about this for another few paragraphs, but the best way to show how I felt is that we ordered another box of six to take home afterwards.
The rest of the food was interesting. The Iberian ham sandwich was actually very good, with well-toasted bread, good quality pork, and a ton of perfectly melted cheese. The pasteis de bacalhau and quiche were pretty disappointing, though.
For being as famous as is it, this place is remarkably cheap. Each pasteis de belem is only 1.6 euros, and a packet of 6 is less than 10. The rest of the food is crazy cheap as well; with the sandwich, which comes in a massive portion, being under 5 euros.
Overall, it doesn't matter how long the wait is, you need to get the pasteis de belem here. It deserves it's iconic status. 9.5/10