It was the perfect half day mini break. The morning started crisp and sunny, with heat forecast for…read morethe afternoon, so we packed our bathers and set off for lunch by the beach.
An hour's drive later the clear aqua waters of Dromana beach were to our right and a little further along we found a lighthouse, and opposite a white and blue weatherboard beach house set behind a small garden. This is where you find Saltwater Bistro at McCrae Beach Pavillion.
To one side is a café with generous outdoor seating, where breakfast and casual lunches are served in the holidays and on weekends, but we were headed to the bistro on the other side, fronted by garden.
I first met Saltwater's chef Stacy Thompson a few years ago when he was at Steer Bar & Grill at the Olsen Art Hotel. Before that he had left his native NZ for the UK and then a stint in Sao Paolo, Brazil. I knew how long and fired his enthusiasm is for cooking, his interest in sourcing local boutique produce and his personally high standards. So I kept up with his moves. He arrived at the McCrae Pavilion around 6 months ago.
The bistro has had time to hit its stride and was doing a healthy number of covers over the Summer all based on word of mouth, not PR. When we were there couples and ladies in mumu's, fresh up from their nearby beach bathing boxes were grabbing a quick bite in the café and the bistro crowd were favouring the shady veranda and seats closest to the open French doors looking across the front garden.
The vaguely French, shabby-chic beach house aesthetic in cool blues sets you instantly at ease. The kitchen pass can be seen from the room and the bar sits alongside. Long banquettes and clustered tables make this also a good function space, hence their wedding package with permits for beach weddings.
This is not a locale where modern gastronomy is at home, so the menu is small but a well considered exploration of bistro dishes, and Victorian boutique produce makes an appearance as I would expect. The selection has been in place a while, so our lovely waitress filled us in on seasonal updates and specials.
Likewise the wine and cocktail selection is small and well considered. My McCrae Seabreeze cocktail was an ideal start. Happily wines by the glass were poured at the table, a pet peeve of mine. One observation - while there are plenty of wines from the region, I would have liked to have seen some of Mornington Peninsula's own excellent craft beers and boutique ciders listed.
I found artisan skills and attention to detail in a terrine that Chef has been perfecting the recipe for for 2 years, house smoked salmon using three kinds of wood chips, milk soaked eggplant and smoky babaganoush with hazelnut and red peppers.
Likewise attention to detail in local heirloom apples, in produce from farmers who are providing Stacy with mini veggies, micro herbs and flowers that are sourced for flavour not just looks. Boutique items I liked included house pickled vegetables, Hart Olives and Boatshed Cheeses, and yes there is also good bread and olive oil.
Importantly for the holiday population in the neighborhood at peak season, there is a kids menu too. Stacy's a dad, so his fish fingers, alphabet soup with toasties appear with a slider and mini portions of sides are available too.
I honestly enjoyed everything we tried. It knocked the disappointing regional 'Good Food Guide' hatted venue I ate at recently out of the ball park for technique, produce and gentle country service. And knowing Stacy, even if he hadn't known I was there, it would have been the same.
Have a look at my photos to see the dishes we had. If you're there on a hot day do what we did - go for a swim in the stunningly clear water at the beach over the road afterwards, shake the meal down and relax into your food coma on the warm, soft pale sand before heading home.
You will feel nurtured, relaxed and happy....and perhaps even start to wonder if you could move there?
