Bonfire night is a particular tradition in Sussex, and no more so than the county town of Lewes. This is the big one. Always held on November 5th, the seven bonfire societies from Lewes, plus many more from all the local towns and villages (plus a couple all the way from Germany), congregate here to celebrate this most Pagan of all festivals. Where else is it socially acceptable to shout "Burn the Pope" at the top of your voice while trying to avoid the blazing fire torches and the bangers exploding in the street?!
The event marks not only the the date of the uncovering of the gunpowder plot when Guy Fawkes famously tried to burn down the Houses of Parliament, but also commemorates the memory of the seventeen Protestant martyrs from the town burnt at the stake for their faith during the Marian Persecutions.
Be warned, health and safety does not apply to this one night in Lewes, and for this I love it all the more. However, I have to say that it wasn't quite as manic as I was expecting. We stood at the top of School Hill and had a great view. I think it may be a bit more manic at the bottom of town, around Cliffe High Street, but we found a great spot.
You will need to be in Lewes before 3pm as they close off all the roads around the town. The trains are also manic and it may take you three hours to make the 20 minute journey back to Brighton. Luckily, I stayed with a friend in town after a 7 mile hike over the Downs to get there.
The parade itself starts around 6.30pm and continues most of the night. Participants range from 6 month old babies in prams to ladies in their 80s, and everyone in between. I'm so glad that this tradition is being kept alive and so many youngsters take part, it really celebrates so many parts of British history.
Costumes and themes in the parade range from Tudors to Cavaliers to voodoo tribes to Smurfs! There are a multitude of bands, from brass to samba, and the noise and fire create such an evocative atmosphere. It really is like nothing else you will see in this country.
After the main parade has finished, all of the societies put on bonfires and firework displays. There is a large public display at the bottom of town, but on this occasion we had tickets (at the bargain price of a fiver) for the cliff society bonfire. They had built a massive bonfire with a viking longship on top which they then set alight by throwing on the burning torches that have been carried around town. All the societies also burn topical effigies, this years included Guy Fawkes, the Pope and Colonel Gaddafi! The fireworks were pretty impressive, but a bit stuttering in places, maybe a technical fault?
If you get the chance to visit you really must, just for the complete surrealness of it all! Just remember that you go at your own risk, but enjoy the freedom that this brings in our ever so tightly controlled society. The website quotes "volenti non fit injuria", a nice way of saying they accept no responsibility for injury or damage! read more