4.5 stars - I love a good tasting menu, but it had been a while since my last one. With that being…read moresaid, I was traveling solo for the evening and decided to treat myself to an elaborate feast at Le Clan, an one Michelin-starred restaurant. Since I was on my own, I preferred not to sit at a table, so I was happy that I was able to reserve a single seat at the bar.
The quaint restaurant was located on a side street off of one of the main drags in the upper town of Old Quebec. I walked in and was surprised to be face-to-face with the kitchen, which was on full display just beyond the host stand. I was escorted upstairs to the main dining room, where the friendly host checked me in and walked me through the modern, yet rustic dining room to the swanky bar area. The bar had around six seats, and there were two high-top tables in the space as well. The lighting was dim and came from round lamps, which resembled disco balls, hanging from the ceiling. There was also a small television showing the Chef's journeys across Canada to find the most natural ingredients possible.
Once seated, I was greeted by the bartender, Jonathan, who was a joy to chat with throughout my meal. He explained that I had two options - either a 4-course meal or a 6-course, each available with a wine pairing. I decided that I wanted the complete experience, so I went with the longer tasting, which was still very reasonable at Can$ 119. Though I did not partake in the wine pairing, I certainly wanted a drink. I wound up getting a glass of the 2024 Chateau de Roquefort Petit Salé de Villeneuve from Provence. The crisp white wine had the aroma of freshly sliced red delicious apples. It had a ripe acidity and was medium-bodied, despite its quick finish. I was absolutely in love with the dry blend of Clairette and Vermentino grapes, so I even got a second glass.
While the menu was technically in English, many of the ingredients were still in French, but I left my fate to the hands of the skilled kitchen, which was very freeing! Before the tasting courses even began, they delivered a few sample teasers to drive excitement. First came a single lentil chip carefully positioned in an upright fashion, sticking out of a bowl of dried lentils. It was served with the perfect amount of the creamiest hummus I had ever had. Next came another tasty bite that I unfortunately do not recall, but do remember liking. It was served with thickly-sliced pieces of crusty bread that a local bakery made solely for them. After the two fantastic introductions, the true procession began. First came a sliced of smoked sturgeon so fresh and tender that it melted in my mouth. It was served over a ricotta and salt cod puree and was topped with onions. Next was the red deer tartare mixed with Savora (a yellow condiment like mustard) and celery root. It was hiding beneath a sheet of sourdough crisps that were decorated with roasted chanterelles. I have always been a fan of venison, and this dish was delicious; it managed to be both hearty and light at the same time. These first two courses were my favorites of the night.
The following two plates were my least favorite, though they were still excellent. In fact, these were the two that would be omitted if one were to get the 4-course tasting, so perhaps others had felt similar. There was the Atlantic halibut in a bubbling foam of what was supposed to be cuttlefish ink, but was white in color. The small chunk of fish was topped with spelt and garlic scape. It was a nice dish, but not as flavorful or memorable when compared with the others. Then, there was the rabbit served with stewed beetroot and damson plums, all in a beer syrup. I found this dish better than the halibut, but rabbit is just not really a favorite of mine. It was a creative concept for sure, but not a flavor I adored.
The meal then seemed to veer back on track, starting with a perfectly prepared hunk of Angus Beef, served with a tiered stack of potato and sausage, topped with a dollop of Japanese mustard. There was also a green, earthy puree on the plate, and a lightly creamy sauce was poured over the steak tableside. Next, the kitchen surprised me yet again with a popcorn pastry covered with white chocolate and topped with actual popcorn. It was buttery and sweet, and I really liked it. Then there was another small chocolate cake with a mousse topping that came as a side dish to the final dessert course. The fresh strawberries from local Île d'Orléans were topped with a rhubarb ice cream, a meringue sprinkled with sumac, and a strawberry and geranium sauce.
The tasting might have been long in terms of courses, but everything was nicely paced. I made sure to get a copy of the menu to take home, which the host noticed on my way out and let me know that he appreciated it. When I arrived at the bottom of the stairs, the busy servers exiting the kitchen made sure to send me off with their best wishes. Le Clan was really a class act!
