Walking into the dining room, on the ground floor of Dow's Lake Pavilion, one can be forgiven for thinking that you are the unfashionably-early, first-guest at a wedding. The place was empty and there were only 4 other guests for the entire time we were there. The decor and layout does suggest that they are expecting a bridal party anytime soon and being shown to our table by Rembrandt, our server for the night, we passed a DJ mixing desk and turntable which only added to the sense that we had forgotten our wedding gift and needed to run out to buy one in nearby Little Italy, quite apropos. Seated by the curved outer wall next to the window overlooking the lake, you do get a panoramic view of the lake and moored boats. Unfortunately the exterior screens could definitely do with a power-wash as we spent the rest of the evening looking at a spider trying to make her way across the window to find her evening meal, as well as an assortment of other bugs. Oh well, minor details. We did get to see a family of four in one of those gawd-awful pedalos gamely trying to have fun, dad peddling like crazy, mom trying to keep up with him, the pre-teens in the back just wishing they had control of the pedals with a "oh god, why are we here" look upon their faces. We saw them later exchanging the boat for canoes, a more sensible choice.
Rembrandt bought the menus over quickly and we ordered a cocktail, each, I had a moscow mule with some really good local ginger beer, and my companion a pink lemonade. We chose pan-seared scallops and a goat cheese salad as our starters and a beer-braised pork belly and veal escalope as mains. He dispatched to the kitchen and then returned with fresh bread and a trio of flavoured butters to choose from, a sundried tomato one, basil and herb, and one other I forget what at this point.
The appetizers came. Wow. I love scallops and the treatment of these little molluscs was very original. Pan seared and with a honey-granola sprinkling to give the dish some bite and texture contrast, with a balsamic splash and served on a bed of roasted celery root puree. Superb taste and presentation. The goat cheese salad had chunks of smoked bacon, with a sweet vinaigrette served oven a bed of mixed field greens which elevated it out of the realms of ordinary salad.
My beer-braised pork belly came and goodness, it must have been half the pigs belly it was huge! Nestled on a bed of decadently creamy roasted onion mashed potatoes (which were some of the best ever restaurant mashed I have had) and topped with braised red cabbage and apple slaw, the flavour profile and combination was so heavenly. The salty fatty unctuousness of the pork belly with the sweet-acidic-syrupyness of the slaw was a marriage made in heaven. The side of al-dente whole carrots and un-topped-and-tailed french beans were a perfect addition too, a nice touch to the fine details. The thick veal chop-escalope (it was somewhere in between, a nice thick meaty piece of protein) was skillet roasted with a chanterelle mushroom cream sauce with a balsamic reduction, also served with the amazing mash and veggies. Nothing was overly fatty or oily even though there is a liberal use of cream and butter; the chef has the balance just right. Perhaps the pork belly was a little too large as I was truly full when I had finished it but, heck, I am sure another could eat that size with no problem.
My companion and I are not desert eaters really so we chose the cheese plate as an after. I am happy to see the cheese plate making a comeback in restaurants. We have so many great cheeses in this area with the Quebec influence that it is a welcome prodigal's return to the dining tables of the region. We had three cheeses: Le Cru de Clocher which is an excellent raw-milk cheddar from Abitibi-Temiscamingue with a creamy texture and medium strong taste; Le Douanier from Noyan, QC is a semi-soft cheese with a signature line of ash through its centre and a mild-oaky-fruity flavour and a local brie. It is great to see raw-milk cheeses on the menu. The plate was served with a selection of crackers and a made in-house strawberry preserve and a whole grain mustard for contrast. Excellent. Again, attention to detail.
And, I am SO glad to see the chef has a caveat on the menu stating "We do not recommend meats and fish ordered well done" Sweet! If I was a chef I would refuse to serve anyone who orders any protein well done and direct them to another establishment.
A fantastic meal, we walked out of there very happy and content and full. Service was top-notch, friendly and funny too. Rembrandt is not only the server but the manager of the complex too, with the upstairs restaurant under his belt.
Now, if only they could do something about that spider we had a birds-eye view of..... read more