We randomly walked into this small restaurant. It would prove to be my favorite food in all of France this year. It appears to be run by a two person team - just the uber talented wife and her friendly husband. The man seated us and brought us our wine and took our order while the woman brought us our menus, our finished dishes, and, remarkably, did *all* the cooking. The kitchen is open and exposed to view. I was completely impressed by everything. The range of things she cooked (alone!) won my eternal admiration. (And she made all her desserts too!) Her flavor profiles were exceptional - playful, fulfilling, rich, clean, never meandering into pointless conceit. Plate presentation was as refined and attractive as any (expensive) high-end restaurant.
On the first night (we would go back), we didn't expect to eat more than a snack. What we ended up eating was a happy surprise, bite after bite. My palate fatigue was pushed aside. This food made me happy. We started with the frog legs, which came fast, hot, crisp, tender, and moist. There was also a sort of tartar dipping sauce but we'd inhaled the legs so fast that we barely used it. The next dish was the revelation that something special was happening here. Thinly sliced cold veal with thin slices of foie gras and a scattering of micro-greens, capers, and tiny fried cubes of bread. Every bite was ideal in flavor, texture, and proportion. This is a dish that could easily be overpowered by the ego of lemon or a disproportionate excess of one protein over another. This was superb, simply superb. The next dish was ravioli with langoustine. The ravioli were dressed lightly in a cream sauce with a small side of tiny cubed beets (themselves dressed with a light vinaigrette). More superb balance and phenomenal flavor. We even went with a dessert, wine braised figs with mascarpone and thin pieces of white chocolate. Naturally, excellent.
When we came back, we started with fried gray shrimp - which you ate whole, shell on. Tasty, meaty umami, and because the shrimps are so small, you don't notice the shell except for a momentary crunch on the first chew. These morsels should be offered in every bar. Next, shaved ham on poached egg with sautéed cubes of mushroom on a luscious mushroom puree. Superb. My main was a pork belly confit sitting on a celery root puree. Excellent. The date's escargot in risotto looked like a work of art. This was the most 'magazine-photo' ready dish we'd seen and it tasted better than it looked. The risotto was perfect. Superb. For dessert, the walnut pie with honey ice cream. More excellence. I will truly miss this restaurant. I would consider returning to Beaune just so I could continue eating here. This is why I eat. To be happy. read more