What do you think of when it comes to castles? Do you think, deep dark dungeons, spiralling staircases climbing up into grand towers, ramparts that were once fired from and upon by determined and angry men? How about great halls and sweltering kitchens, portcullises and killing holes in the walls and floors?
If this is what you think a castle ought to be then you're thinking about one of Wales' most venerable, fought over, and well-preserved castles - Kidwelly. Built in the 12th Century by the Normans, and captured and lost by the Welsh and English time after time.
This is not, as castles go, enormously big; about a quarter of the size of Caernarfon Castle. However, it has it all. The view of the castle as you walk up the sweeping footpath to the main doors give you some sense of how grand this place was from the start. Slits in the walls everywhere you look imposes on you straightaway that this was a business premesis at one point, not just a country retreat for a wealthy landowner.
The main passageway has a number of entrances leading off it. One of which leads down into a dungeon complete with a pit into which criminals and prisoners of war were thrown. Recently the Most Haunted team did a vigil in the pit with some interesting results.
Here you will also find a small informative museum describing how the castle has exchanged hands over the centuries. All very intriguing. This castle has a very bloody and political history.
The castle's main features are all still intact; you can climb into the towers and across the ramparts, into bedrooms and into the portcullis room, where you will find slits in the floor for pouring boiling oil and firing arrows onto any unwanted guests.
The grounds are very well kept, even and tidy lawns and clear signage telling you about the use that each bit of the castle was put to. These give you a real sense that life went on here. Cooking, cleaning, praying, dining, jousting, discussions, court hearings you name it.
Kidwelly is itself a lovely little village that has a long and well-documented history, but the castle is the jewel in the crown. If you are a lover of history, of stories and visions of long ago this place is perfect for you. I dare you to stand on the ramparts and look over the town or the river, or down into the dungeon or above the killing holes, and not think of yourself in the position of one of the soldiers doing his duty by keeping back vicious invaders in a bygone age.
Kidwelly can be found on the Llanelli to Carmarthen road in West Wales, the A484.
OS: SN 409 070 read more