I took the train to Belém on a gloomy rainy Sunday afternoon...the tourist crowds were ridiculous, & it was pure chaos on the sidewalk, people standing in lines everywhere & other people pouring in & out of places with beverages & snacks & souvenirs. I regret it, but I kinda had to get sharp with one of the ladies trying *urgently to sell me an umbrella.
I came upon this beautiful peaceful place, my only reason for the outing, & walked up to the counter, & the guy didn't have change, & I couldn't use a card. So I had to walk back down the hill, through the madness, & find something I actually wanted to buy in one of the shops for the right mathematical amount to get back three euros.
I probably looked a little annoyed, but there was no way I'd be dissuaded after everything I'd read about the place, & it was an easy return to smiles with the charming dude at the desk when I showed up again with a hologram postcard of Lisbon & coins. I wandered around in the rain, through these regions that were meant to mirror Portugal's colonial past, an elaborate red veranda & Chinese landscaping for Macau, these striking images of an African couple that repeat through one area, and so on.
But yes, to the point of not having a well-stocked cash register, no doubt the place has an air of abandoned grandeur to it...admittedly I find that really exquisite, but I would also love to see & support a sustainable restoration effort for the grounds & facilities. There were terraced greenhouses, locked & empty, & a small pool beside an unused seating area. Suddenly the bright blue of an enormous peacock, perched on the pillar across from me, right at eye level. It was a kind of ghostly paradise. CR read more