We had high hopes for Izakaya, a Japanese restaurant on west Bay City's Midland Street. We'd attended a philosophical debate at SVSU, and wanted a fine meal over which to discuss that. And we'd been taken to Fuji Sushi by Midland friends a couple years ago, and they've since become fans of H20 (and the bookstore) at the other end of our Midland Street, so were hoping this would be a good place to take them soon too. We were pleased to see the block parked up on a chilly Thursday night, lively business in our 'hood.
We were very disappointed.
Service was good from our cheerful female waitperson, and the wine and green tea carried us through the 25 minute wait for our food. The duck fried rice (that night's special) and my wife's steak were marinated and well-seasoned. I had some unagi nigiri, a breakfast favorite the semester we spent in Tokushima-shi. Yet the lonely, á la carte offerings seem goofy for what's supposed to be a fine Japanese meal at significant prices. Similar sit-down Japanese restaurants we remember in Shikoku, Nara, Kobe and Kyoto (and even exotic Grand Rapids) would offer soup, salad and rice-vinegar pickles along with main dishes or sushi rolls. Even Blossoms, Bay City's less pretentious, more economical strip-mall "fusion" restaurant gives fuller meals.
Now the ambience. We walked in to a blaring soundtrack of classic rock, and contemporary covers of boomer-era songs, more welcome on a boisterous night at Rathskellar, Lucky or Duso's than a high-end restaurant. We asked about it, were told it was from an envent earlier in the day in the other rooms of the facilities. Fine, dear, but this is the evening, in the restaurant. You need a new mix tape, Japanese instrumental music or their subtle crooners. We had to ask them a second time to turn it down, but staff still felt the place needed disco volume. On top of that, a table of whoopin' hollerin' twentysomething hillbilly drunks whose parents never taught them restaurant manners kept raising their volume, while we kept expecting one or more diplomatic waiter to simmer them down.
It's hard to launch a restaurant anywhere, and that block's had a weird history. Fifteen years ago, someone launched a Reggae-themed pub in that space with a quality kitchen. I enjoyed one open mic night, run by Twenty Dollar Dog Bob Wall, that included high schoolers and seasoned boomers, and later took visiting Californian friends there for the fun atmosphere. But the owner was surprised people didn't want his carefully prepared New Orleans-style dishes, and the place went under. A decade ago we went to the new Vno wine bar, and when I ordered a sherry was asked by the server "What's a sherry?"
We might stick our nose in the door again in six months, but momentarily listen before we will enter. Maybe Izakaya can find its identity, its right formula of quality food and comfort...but not if it keeps the feel of a rowdy Midland Street dive circa 2005. read more
