I contacted the ferry website (ctl.navicomo@navgazionlaghi.it) directly before my trip and Paolo Zambra was most helpful in advising on the fall/winter ferry schedule to Bellagio and Varenna. We followed the schedule he outlined and has a great visit with the least hassle. The weather was unfavorable, this being November, but he had no control over that. I want to share the info for travelers visiting in fall & winter to plan a beautiful self-guided day tour at a very reasonable rate.
On a rainy day with overcast gray sky we took the red M1 Milan Metro to Milano Nord Cadorna train station to catch a morning train for the 1 hour multi-stops ride to the Lago Como Station. We had contacted the very helpful and responsive Lake Como ferry website (info@navigaziionelaghi.it) prior to our trip and learned that on a November Saturday (low season) the first FAST boat to Bellagio would be at 12:25 pm and Como Lago station is only a 5-minute walk from the ferry dock at Piazza Cavour. With ample time to spare before ferry, we toured the Como Cathedral on way to the ferry ticket office right across the street from the Hotel Metropole Swiss. The ferry ride was smooth. It made several stops at towns along the way before reaching Bellagio. Due to low season, rain and closure of the main attraction, there's not much to do in town aside from strolling and relaxing at cafes. After an hour we took a boat to Varenna (this one carries both cars and passengers)15 min.away. Varenna ferry pier is at Piazza Martiri della Liberta. Again, due of rain, late afternoon timing, and uncertainty if attractions were open, we just strolled around a bit and had dinner at one of the restaurants south of the ferry pier. The pier is just 10 min walk from the Esino Lario train station where we caught a late train to Milano Centrale then transferred to a southbound yellow M3 metro, 2 stops to Milan Duomo. We're glad we came. Although the weather was gloomy the villages were quaint and peaceful. We could picture how wonderful it must be on a nice sunny day. The whole self-guided Lake Como ferry tour cost about €20 per person. read more