Handies Peak... *sigh*. That's the sound of appreciation for the magnificent beauty that surrounds this mountain. Our just-above-treeline campsite in the gorgeous American Basin was as picturesque as one could possibly wish for as an introduction to the San Juans in July 2011. My jaw dropped when we emerged from the trees and entered this lush, rolling meadow that is abruptly walled in on the opposite side by a long spine of towering gray rock. Its ruggedness juxtaposed the delicate carpet of wildflowers, and in this basin, there were all kinds: Parry's Clover, Parry's Primrose, Marsh Marigold, Bluebells, Blue Columbine, Whiskbroom Parsley, Wild Candytuft, American Bistort, Larkspur, etc. Up higher towards Sloan Lake, we found Alpine Avens, Alpine Sunflowers, Roseroot, Moss Campion, Silky Phacelia, Dusky Penstemon, Fairy Candelabra... I could go on and on!
Handies (14,048ft) was my 23rd Fourteener. The standard route trail is easy to follow as it winds its way past pretty Sloan Lake and crawls up the west-facing slopes. It eventually ascends to heights above the Basin's walls where one would be able to turn around and drink in the spectacular scenery of an endless series of peaks. It's not a long hike, so that'll allow plenty of time for enjoyment.
My suggestion is to start early, like 4-4:30AM. Not only will this be safer (see second-to-last paragraph), but you'll be rewarded with an incredible sunrise. "Purple mountain majesties..." - damn straight.
I recommend County Road 30 be driven during the day: sections of this dirt road are unforgettable, especially as it narrows into an unguarded shelf road with sheer drops off one side and sheer walls on the other. There is a real danger of driving off the cliff or having a rock tumble down upon you. Once you make it to the Silver Creek/Grizzly Gulch TH, leave lower clearance cars parked here (there is a restroom), or drive up the now rocky and rougher road - but be prepared to pull off. For higher clearance vehicles, shortly ahead is a major stream-crossing where we witnessed a newer-model Subaru Outback having problems. He eventually made it after several attempts of backing up and re-entering, but not without white knuckles, I'm sure. Late season and a drier year like 2012 will probably be much easier.
Finally, general notes:
Afternoon thunderstorms appear like clockwork in this state during monsoon season, so I suggest hikers plan to BE ABLE TO GET OFF THE SUMMITS BY 10-11AM.
Also, dog owners, PLEASE LEASH YOUR DOGS. I am not opposed to dogs on 14ers; HOWEVER, I don't care how friendly or trained they are, over the years I've seen many of these "friendly" but unleashed pets trample willy-nilly on the delicate alpine tundra, take dumps where you can't get pick up after them (human & canine poop does not break down easily above treeline!), trip other hikers, and chase down and even CATCH wildlife (pika, marmot, ptarmigan, etc) which are hardy enough to survive up here but cannot survive your dogs. Thank you. read more