Eight miles of some of the most unique landscape scenery anywhere in the world. Hands down, one of the most interesting hikes you will ever do in your life. To call it fairyland doesn't event give enough description to the magic that unfolds on this trail.
The Fairyland Loop Trail begins near the North Campgrond along the rim trail. Since it's a loop, you can actually do it in either direction -- clockwise or counter-clockwise -- though most trail maps and guides will tell you to drive to Fairyland Point to embark. That's a solid plan, but the magic of camping in the North Campground, or staying in the lodge, or just being anywhere in Bryce with shuttles, is that you can pop in anywhere on the rim and get to the trailhead.
I was camped in the B Loop of North Campground, which sits right near the rim, so we decided to make a counter-clockwise attack on the trail, left camp on foot, intersected the rim trail, and followed the rim along is precipitous edge walking south. When you arrive near the North Campground General Store, you're getting close. It's tempting to feel like you're not really on the Fairyland Loop Trail until you leave the Rim Trail and actually descend into the canyon, but that would be a sad mistake. Take the time while you're on the rim to enjoy those views, They're spectacular, and as far as length and scope, you're really not going to see anything like them once you get down into the canyon.
There comes a junction as you're headed south on the rim trail, where you're going to drop down the trail into the belly of the canyon beast. This is stunning as well. Reds. Oranges. Mountains in the distance. Almost white looking scuffs on the spires of stone that rise up to tickle the sky; you're in surreal territory and this trail takes you past all of it. You'll descend into the canyon, traversing ridges and seeing little peek-a-boo holes in the rock. Eventually, you'll get into more trees, and then after a long while of switchbacks, zig zag down one side of the canyon and start to slowly make your way back up the other.
Every turn is a new photograph -- a new view, a new angle, and new moment that will take your breath away. A camera is a must, but don't forget to turn it off every so often and just live in that moment. In the spring and fall the weather can be perfect (but fickle) so you may want to just lay down and look up at the rough rock formations, laying at their base to see as the earth reaches up to the sky with worn and misshapen stony fingers. Summer can be almost unbearingly hot, although of all the national parks in Utah, the elevation here at Bryce is a saving grace. In winter, this fills with snow. I've snowshoed in the canyon, though not on this trail, and it's probably even more surreal to see the hoodoos covered in their puffy white winter coats of snow.
After several miles and a gradual, circular destination, you'll come back towards Fairyland Point (again, this is if you're hiking counter-clockwise). The last bit before Fairyland has you gaining your altitude back, but genuinely this hike isn't too bad. At the point, you rejoin the Rim Trail, and if this is where you left, congrats! You're back! If you're in the campground, this is a nice spot to stop again and look over the views, before embarking on the segment of the trail that goes back to camp. That section -- from Fairyland Point to the campground -- is the only part that seemed longer than I thought it would be. While everything else breezed by so quickly, that last two miles or so on the Rim Trail, actually have you gain 400 more feet, then give half of them back up for a nice downhill finish. This was one of my first hikes of the season, so my winter legs felt those last two a little bit, but it was really not too bad.
They say the hike is "strenuous" and I'll agree that in the heat of summer you'll need tons of water, but the actual hike isn't hard in and of itself. It's just 8 miles, and you really only lose 800 feet dropping into the canyon and coming back up. Add the crest between between Fairyland Point and the campground and your max altitude is about 8150ft, minimum 7160ft. Be smart, leave your plan with friends, and enjoy the day hike. No permits are required, and you're sure to see other people on the trail most days of the year.
I've been thinking a lot about those magical days of summer when everything seems possible. About spells. I've been thinking about fairies that hold magical powers to turn our lives into more than we ever thought it was. I believe they are real. I see the red and orange hues of the formations here and I don't see rocks, I see magical redheaded fairies that hike alongside you and touch every step, making it more charmed and delightful and special than can imagine. And when you hike Fairyland Loop, you'll believe, too. And when you believe, you realize that the magic doesn't just come and go with hikes or special places, but that it's become a part of you. Every day. read more