It's Mexican and it's Chinese, but don't call it Mexican-Chinese fusion. El Chino is a brand spanking new addition to the west-ish end, with the owners of of Robie Street Station putting this multicultural, late night eats joint in the compact space where RSS's take out area used to be.
My wife and I came in after an evening walk, looking to sample their fare. The colourful bar dominates the room, while an equally colourful, albeit less light emitting, wall mural challenges the bar for chromatic audacity. It's bright and funky, and I like it. As previously stated, the place is small, seating less than 20 at the bar and a mix of small tables along the wall.
The menu was equally compact, and even more enticing. Drinks were diverse, with a sizeable cocktail list and several tequilas and a couple mezcals for those who like good tequila and not that crap you shoot to get drunk. I started off with a bottle of Tsing Tao, in an effort to keep it real with my coming food. Options for food were just a handful, but each was worth a try from the sounds of them. We went with an order of pork tacos, dumplings and curried fish balls.
We got our tacos first, with two housemade corn tortillas piled high with pulled pork, red cabbage and chipotle sour cream. I would have preferred a larger tortilla to manage the amount of food in the taco, but it was a damn fine taco in the end. Corn tortillas are the way to go, and while these could have used more time on the grill, they had a great flavour. The pork was juicy and delicious, and the other ingredients added some tang and depth of flavour.
The dumplings arrived shortly thereafter, with the pork-filled wonders under some strips of green onion and cilantro, and in a soy-based sauce. The dumplings had a great pork flavour and pleasantly chewy wrapper, although I would have preferred the sauce on the side to better manage the saltiness of the soy. Chili oil on the side added some kick.
Since my wife isn't one for the bounties of the sea, I had the fish balls to myself. I didn't really know what to make of their texture - slightly spongy, with no discernible chunks of fish, but a nice fish flavour. The curry sauce had a mild curry flavour that didn't overpower that of the fish balls, and had just a bit of heat. Upon asking our server, who also happened to be the owner, they aren't made in house, but come from an Asian grocery. Either way, I still really enjoyed them, although I'll ignore their possible origins the way I do for hotdogs.
For dessert we got their "milk and cookies", which doesn't tell you much on the menu but turned out to be small churros with a small glass of seasoned, warm milk. The churros were simple, with a dusting of cinnamon and sugar, and were so incredibly light inside that I don't know how they didn't implode. My wife was an instant fan, and I wasn't far behind in my enthusiasm.
The north/central/west end of Halifax needs more places like El Chino, serving up great late night eats and drinks, so that people don't have to resort to sketchy fast food joints. Their arrival makes me sadder that I'm moving out of the neighbourhood, but with the quality of the food that they're cranking out and the niche that they seem to be capturing, I'm sure they'll still be here when I get back. read more